Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood offers a delightful journey through centuries of culinary history, where traditional flavors and modern influences blend seamlessly. From its ancient roots as a haven for freedmen to its present-day status as a lively hub for dining and socializing, Trastevere invites you to explore its charming streets and taste its authentic offerings. Be prepared to walk, as many of its narrow lanes are best explored on foot or by scooter, allowing you to fully absorb the atmosphere.
Exploring Trastevere’s Culinary Heart
Campo de’ Fiori’s Ancient Delights
Begin your gastronomic adventure just across the Tiber in Campo de’ Fiori. Here, you can sample Prosciutto di Parma and local cheeses at a deli that has been a fixture for centuries. Imagine the history held within the walls as you admire the legs of ham hanging from the ceiling, a testament to enduring culinary traditions. This stop offers a foundational taste of Italian cured meats and cheeses, setting the stage for the rich flavors to come.
Deep-Fried Cod a Portuguese Touch
A surprising yet essential part of Rome’s food scene is the deep-fried cod, known as Filetti di Baccalà. This dish’s presence in the capital is a direct result of ancient trade links with Portugal. Seek out a specialist restaurant where this has been their sole focus for ages. The experience of biting into a crisp, light batter reveals a wonderfully flaky cod. Enjoy it with a carafe of chilled pecorino wine, a refreshing accompaniment that balances the richness of the fried fish.
Crossing the Tiber into Trastevere
As you cross the Ponte Sisto, the Tiber River flowing below, you’ll feel the distinct shift into Trastevere. The bridge itself is often alive with local buskers, their accordions and beatboxing adding to the ambiance. Once across, you enter Piazza Trilussa, named after a beloved local poet. This piazza is a gathering spot for young Romans, their laughter and conversation creating a lively atmosphere. Many enjoy classic Roman aperitifs, like Aperol Spritz, or a cold bottle of Peroni beer, embracing the social spirit of the neighborhood.
A Haven for Local Dining
Trastevere is described as the place where Romans themselves go to eat. Unlike many cities, chain restaurants are a rarity here, making authentic local experiences easier to find. Even modern global foods are only recently making inroads, with sushi restaurants and even unusual takes like carbonara kebabs appearing, though burgers are still considered a special treat.
I Suppli’s Famous Fried Rice Balls
Don’t miss an opportunity to try suppli, a Roman version of Sicilian arancini, from a hole-in-the-wall spot like I Suppli. You’ll likely see a queue, a good sign of its popularity. These fried rice balls are a delicious street food snack. Unlike the larger arancini which often contain peas and ragu, suppli are typically filled with a rich tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. The visual of pulling one apart, with the stringy mozzarella resembling an old-fashioned telephone wire, gives them their nickname: “al telefono.”
Piazza di Santa Maria’s Evening Glow
As evening approaches, the bars and spritz spots around Piazza di Santa Maria come alive. The sunglasses come off as people soak in the last rays of the sun. It’s a perfect time to find a spot, enjoy a drink, and watch the world go by. The area retains a down-to-earth feel, with many small osterias and trattorias lining the ivy-clad streets and cobbled alleys.
Basilica di Santa Maria’s Tranquil Beauty
Before diving deeper into the food scene, take a moment for a cultural pause at the Basilica di Santa Maria. This 12th-century church, considered one of the earliest places of Christian worship in Rome, boasts stunning golden mosaics on its walls and ceiling. While it might not have the global fame of the Sistine Chapel, its beauty is equally impressive, and you’ll often find you can enter without the long queues.
The Quest for Authentic Roman Pastas
Navigating Popular Trastevere Restaurants
You’ll notice long queues forming early for well-known restaurants like Nannarella and Tonnarello. While these spots are popular, locals often reserve their main dining time for later in the evening. It’s worth noting that some places that were once local favorites might now cater more heavily to tourists, as evidenced by the demographics of those waiting. If you’re seeking a truly insider experience, a food tour can help bypass the uncertainty of securing a table and guide you to places highly regarded by locals.
Where to find the best amatriciana
For an unforgettable culinary experience, consider seeking out a restaurant known for its exceptional amatriciana sauce. This classic Roman dish, originating from the fields surrounding Amatrice in Lazio, features a vibrant sauce made with fresh tomatoes and a hint of chili, balanced by salty strips of porchetta. It’s a complex and deeply satisfying pasta dish that perfectly represents a key element of Roman cuisine.
You might also explore cacio e pepe, a simpler yet equally beloved pasta. This dish is a testament to the power of few, high-quality ingredients: spaghetti, pecorino cheese, and plenty of black pepper. Its origins trace back to ancient spice routes, highlighting how even the simplest dishes have a rich history.
Saltimbocca alla Romana’s Savory Taste
Even if you believe you’re full after a generous pasta course, you might find room for a secondi like Saltimbocca alla Romana. This Roman specialty features tender veal cutlets, deliciously complemented by a layer of prosciutto and a touch of sage. The sage is key, offering a fresh, aromatic counterpoint to the intense salty flavor of the cured ham. While it’s a dish strongly associated with Rome, some accounts suggest its origins might lie in Brescia, a city in Lombardy, before it was adopted and perfected in the Roman culinary repertoire.
The Sweet Finish Gelato Delights
Spotting Authentic Gelato
Concluding your food exploration with gelato is a must. Pay attention to how the gelato is presented. True artisanal gelato is often kept in metal containers with lids. This method helps preserve its freshness and texture, indicating that it’s made with real ingredients like fresh strawberries and nuts. Be wary of stands where gelato is piled high and covered in syrupy toppings and artificial-looking fruit; these often use artificial flavors and are more for show than taste.
Enjoying a scoop of genuine strawberry or pistachio gelato on a warm evening in Trastevere, surrounded by the lively chatter of locals and visitors alike, is a perfect way to end your day. The flavors are rich and pure, a delightful contrast to the more visually extravagant, but less authentic, versions.
Gelato’s Italian Roots
While many dishes in Rome have traversed continents to find their place, gelato has a more direct Italian lineage. Importantly, its origins are widely attributed to Florence, rather than Rome, reinforcing the idea that Rome is a wonderful convergence of culinary traditions from across Italy and beyond.
Getting to Rome
Flying into Rome
Rome is served by two main airports: Fiumicino (FCO), also known as Leonardo da Vinci International Airport, which handles major carriers like British Airways and Vueling, and Ciampino (CIA), primarily used by budget airlines such as easyJet, Ryanair, and Wizz Air. You’ll find numerous direct flights daily from London, and most regional airports offer multiple connections weekly, with a flight time of approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.
The Scenic Train Journey
For a more extended adventure, reaching Rome by train from the UK is an option, typically taking around a day and a half. This journey usually involves an early Eurostar from London to Paris, followed by a high-speed train (TGV or Frecciarossa) from Paris to Milan. The following day, you can board a fast Trenitalia service from Milan to Rome, which takes about three hours. Be aware that line disruptions between Paris and Milan might require a change in Geneva, Switzerland, until 2025, offering a particularly scenic route through the Alps.