You’re looking for a neighborhood in Rome that feels a bit like Paris’s Marais? Let me tell you about Monti. It’s Rome’s oldest ward, just a short walk from the Colosseum, and it’s packed with unique shops, aperitivo bars, and incredible food. It used to be a working-class area, but now it’s a really hip spot with a younger crowd and lots of artisanal businesses.
Exploring Monti’s Streets
Walking through Monti feels like stepping back in time, with its charming cobblestone streets and old buildings. Even with some road work happening, the atmosphere is special. It’s the kind of place where you can just wander and find something delightful around every corner. We found ourselves exploring little boutiques and taking in the local vibe. It’s a neighborhood that has truly reinvented itself while holding onto its history. You can really feel the pulse of Roman life here, away from the main tourist crowds.
Artisanal Sandwiches in Monti
For lunch, we headed to Zia Rosetta, a tiny shop that specializes in rosetta rolls. These rolls are named for their rose-like shape and are baked fresh daily by a friend of the owner, Alessandro. The menu features rolls named after different types of roses, each with a unique filling. They also offer fresh juices, which are a nice change of pace in Rome.
What to try at Zia Rosetta
The menu has some truly stand-out options. One I was eager to try was the Lardo di Colonnata roll. It’s made with Lardo di Colonnata, a Tuscan specialty. This cured pork fat is placed in Carrara marble basins with salts and aromatics and then cured for months. The result is thinly shaved, incredibly flavorful fat. Zia Rosetta sources theirs from The Larderia Mafald, a very old producer in Tuscany. It was served on a roll with a crispy potato cake, and it was simply divine. If you’re a fan of rich, savory flavors, this is an absolute must-try. It’s a preparation that truly highlights the quality of simple ingredients.
Another excellent choice was the Vanity roll, filled with porchetta and a mustard a l’ancienne. The porchetta was perfectly cooked, with a great balance of fat and lean meat, and some wonderfully crispy bits. The mustard added a nice tanginess. What really makes their sandwiches special, though, are the rolls. They are incredibly fresh, light, and have a perfect crispness that’s hard to find elsewhere. It’s a simple detail, but it makes all the difference in a great sandwich.
Mini Rolls for More Flavor
We couldn’t resist trying a few of the mini rolls, which are available in smaller sizes for a lower price. We sampled the Allspice, which had a chicken curry filling with raisins and almonds. While it was tasty, I personally preferred the more traditional Italian fillings. The Seva roll was an ode to Scandinavia, featuring smoked salmon, baked potato, and a dill-mustard sauce. Alessandro takes pride in his ingredients, especially the potatoes, which he buys fresh from the market.
The Moderna roll was a delicious meatball in a rich tomato sauce. It’s hard to pick a favorite among them all; we just wished we had more room to try them all! Alessandro was incredibly generous and even wrapped up a chunk of Lardo di Colonnata for me to take away. It really showed the warmth and hospitality of the people in Monti.
Sweet Treats in Monti
After our sandwich stop, we explored more of the neighborhood and decided it was time for some gelato. It was a warm day, perfect for a refreshing treat. We found Il Gelatone, which offered an impressive variety of flavors. We tried marron glace (sweet chestnut), crema de nonna (a vanilla and pine nut cream), and pistacchione, which is pistachio with pistachio jam.
Gelato Flavors to Savor
All three were fantastic. The crema de nonna was particularly intriguing, with a lovely mix of pine nuts and creamy vanilla. The marron glace was pure, sweet chestnut flavor, and the pistacchione was packed with pistachios and pistachio paste, giving it a wonderful texture and intense flavor. It’s the kind of gelato that makes you pause and really enjoy every spoonful.
Nearby, we stopped at Gelateria dell’Angeletto, which had fewer flavors but was just as enticing. They offer samples, which is a great way to explore. While pistachio is their most popular, I wanted to try something different. I opted for persimmon, which tasted purely of the fresh fruit. I also tried zabaglione with a hint of Marsala wine, which was a delightful twist. My absolute favorite here, though, was the marron and rum flavor. It’s like a richer, headier version of rum and raisin, with a delicious chestnut base. It’s amazing how they can capture such distinct flavors so perfectly.
For a final treat, we popped into La Bottega del Cioccolato. This shop is a visual delight, with a beautiful red theme and an tempting array of handmade chocolates and truffles. You buy them by weight, and you can pick up just a single piece or a larger selection. The chocolatier, Maurizio Proietti, comes from a family that has been making chocolate since the 1800s, so you know you’re getting something special.
Chocolates for Every Taste
I picked out a few for Michael, who wasn’t feeling his best. We got a licorice chocolate, a marron chocolate, a spicy pepperoncini truffle, and a log truffle. Each one was rich and decadent. It’s amazing to think about the history and tradition behind these small, exquisite creations. The passion for crafting these chocolates is evident in every bite.
The Ritual of Aperitivo
Around 6 pm, we joined the locals for aperitivo, a pre-dinner ritual. It’s a great way to enjoy a drink and some snacks before your main meal. We went to Fafiuché in the Monti district, a wine bar that also offers a buffet with drinks. For a reasonable price, you get a glass of wine and can help yourself to a plate of their buffet offerings. They recommended a glass of Gavi Biologico San Pietro 2013 to go with it.
Aperitivo Buffet Delights
The buffet was mostly starch-based, but everything we tried was of decent quality. There was a particularly good rice, salami, and truffle salad that had a strong truffle flavor. It was a quiet atmosphere, perhaps because it was a bit early in the evening. We enjoyed the laid-back vibe and the chance to sample a few different things before dinner. It’s a lovely way to ease into the evening and experience a true Italian tradition. It’s especially nice because you can try a variety of small bites without committing to a full meal.
Dinner at a Roman Institution
After aperitivo, we went to La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, a classic Roman restaurant run by the same family for four generations. Chef Alessio, with his chef’s hat and glasses, is often outside, greeting guests. This place is incredibly popular, so making a reservation is highly recommended. We were lucky to get a table, even though we booked last minute and ended up near the door, where we saw many people turned away.
Sharing Entrees and Pasta
The service at the restaurant was very courteous and attentive. Since we had already had aperitivo, we decided to share an appetizer and have a pasta dish each. Ordering house wine in Rome often yields an excellent glass at a very good price, and this was no exception. The restaurant’s decor felt very homey, with pictures of cats and a cabinet full of family photos. Our waiter explained they are a “cat-friendly restaurant” and have adopted a stray cat that lives nearby.
We started with the Porchetta with garlic bread. The porchetta was a very good version, thinly sliced and fragrant with herbs. The garlic bread was crispy, but not overpowering in garlic flavor. For our pasta dishes, I chose the Bucatini All’amatriciana. This is the fourth classic Roman pasta I’ve tried, following cacio e pepe, carbonara, and gricia. It’s similar to gricia but with the addition of tomato and chili. The bucatini pasta is traditionally used, and this sauce was incredibly rich and flavorful. The guanciale provided bursts of texture and taste. It was so good, I had to be careful not to get any on my white shirt!
Michael ordered the Pappardelle with veal ragu and truffle. If you love truffles, Italy during truffle season is the place to be. Truffle dishes are readily available and don’t necessarily break the bank. This pappardelle was served with a soft veal ragu and truffle, and the aroma was intensely fragrant. The truffle flavor paired perfectly with the tender veal ragu. It’s a dish you want to savor slowly, bite by bite.
Dessert by the Chef’s Daughter
The desserts are said to be created by Alessio’s daughter, Claudia. We opted for the pistachio cheesecake. While it was very light and fluffy with a chocolate cake base, it wasn’t distinctly pistachio flavored and felt more like a cream cake than a traditional cheesecake. It was still a pleasant way to end the meal, though. By the time we finished, our table was quite sought after, so we asked for the bill and left, feeling the streets of Monti more familiar than ever. It’s the kind of place you can easily get lost in and enjoy every moment.