My partner and I recently embarked on an incredible journey around the perimeter of Sardinia, an island that feels like a world unto itself, lying about 120 miles off mainland Italy. We’d heard locals refer to the mainland as “il continente,” and after experiencing the island’s distinct character and stunning landscapes, I understood why. Sardinia offers an experience so rich and varied that it truly warrants its own spotlight, separate from the well-trodden paths of the Italian peninsula. For anyone planning a visit in 2026, or simply dreaming of a Mediterranean escape, Sardinia promises an unforgettable adventure.
Captivating Coastal Drives
Our plan was simple: fly into Cagliari, pick up a rental car, and circumnavigate the island counterclockwise, prioritizing seaside roads. We were eager to explore hidden coves, hike in verdant landscapes, and discover the smaller islands dotting its nearly 1,150 miles of coastline. The drive from Cagliari towards Villasimius along the southern edge was our first taste of Sardinia’s dramatic beauty. This route hugs the sea with remarkable dedication, winding through charming villages and often bringing you breathtakingly close to the turquoise waters.
The sheer visual splendor of these coastal roads is a photographer’s dream. Everywhere you look, the vivid blue of the Mediterranean contrasts with rugged cliffs and lush Mediterranean scrub. We found ourselves pulling over frequently, not just for the views, but to simply breathe in the salty air and soak in the tranquility. It’s easy to spend an entire day just traveling short distances, so engrossed are you in the scenery.
Inland Escapes and Forest Hikes
After a restful night in Tortolì, we decided to venture slightly inland along the eastern side of the island. This detour led us to the Montes Forest area within the National Park of the Gulf of Orosei and Gennargentu. Here, we hiked up two gentle mountains, Monte Fumai and Monte Novo San Giovanni, both offering rewarding panoramic views. The trails, starting at around 3,300 feet, were pleasant and characterized by spiky rock formations. The only sounds that accompanied our ascent were the distant, melodic chimes of cowbells from fields far below.
These inland excursions provided a wonderful counterpoint to our coastal exploration. The change in scenery, from sun-drenched beaches to shady forests and rolling hills, showcased the island’s diverse topography. It’s a reminder that Sardinia isn’t just a beach destination; it’s a place with a rich natural interior waiting to be explored by those willing to look beyond the shoreline.
What are the best inland hiking areas?
Focus on national parks like the Gulf of Orosei and Gennargentu for well-marked trails. Look for smaller mountains like Monte Fumai or Monte Novo San Giovanni for moderate climbs.
Don’t forget to pack sturdy hiking boots and plenty of water, especially during warmer months. The air can be surprisingly cool at higher elevations.
Island Hopping Adventures
Back on the coast, a short drive north from Tortolì brought us to Cala Finanza, a small port. From here, we rented a kayak and paddled for about four miles to Isola Tavolara, a striking island near Sardinia’s northeast corner. Tavolara is long and narrow, its massive limestone and granite cliffs rising dramatically from the sea. It truly gives the impression of a giant tortoise shell emerging from the water, or perhaps the sail of an ancient ship.
This unique island is steeped in legend, with one tale suggesting it was once the vessel that carried Ulysses home. Today, part of the island is occupied by a NATO military base, and while there are no permanent residents, a few landowners still visit. The dramatic geology and storied past make Tavolara a fascinating stop for any visitor.
How do you visit Isola Tavolara?
Kayaking from Cala Finanza is a memorable option for active travelers. Alternatively, check for local boat tours departing from nearby ports.
Arriving by water offers the most dramatic first impression of Tavolara’s imposing cliffs. Be sure to check sea conditions before setting out.
Further north, closer to Sardinia’s northernmost tip, lies the Maddalena archipelago. This collection of islands boasts heavenly crystal-clear waters and pristine white-sand beaches. We spent time hiking on the rocky island of Caprera, exploring trails that meander through porous rocks and low shrubs. It was particularly poignant to walk the same ground where the Italian revolutionary hero Giuseppe Garibaldi lived for the last 26 years of his life, before his passing in 1882. His house is preserved as a museum, offering a glimpse into his later years.
Where is Giuseppe Garibaldi’s home?
You can visit Giuseppe Garibaldi’s former home on the island of Caprera. It is now a museum.
The island of Caprera itself offers beautiful natural landscapes ideal for hiking and swimming. Plan a full day to explore this storied location.
A westward drive as the sun began to set led us to Porto Torres. From here, we took a one-hour ferry to Asinara, an irregularly shaped island that is now a national park and nature reserve, with no permanent inhabitants. Asinara features dramatic cliffs, wide inlets, and small beaches. It’s renowned for its population of shy, wild dwarf albino donkeys, which we were fortunate enough to spot from a distance during our e-bike tour of the island. Exploring Asinara by electric bike was a fantastic way to cover ground while still feeling connected to the natural surroundings.
What can you do on Asinara Island?
Rent an e-bike to explore the island’s diverse terrain and wildlife, including unique albino donkeys.
Look for trails along the coast and enjoy the dramatic cliffside views. The island’s history as a former penal colony adds another layer of intrigue.
Exploring Ancient Roots and Local Delicacies
Continuing our southward journey, we reached Capo Caccia. This impressive headland, part of a regional natural park, offered a short but demanding hike along towering cliffs. The sight of waves crashing against the rocks was so mesmerizing that I found myself returning at sunrise to witness the spectacle once more. The raw power and beauty of the sea meeting the land here are truly unforgettable.
As we traced the western coast, we encountered the colorful town of Bosa, situated along the Temu River, Sardinia’s only navigable waterway. The surrounding hillsides are a patchwork of olive groves and vineyards, dedicated to producing olive oil and Malvasia wine. Picture-postcard villages like Modolo, Magomadas, Tresnuraghes, Sennariolo, and our eventual stop, Cuglieri, pepper this picturesque region.
What is significant about the Temu River?
The Temu River is Sardinia’s sole navigable waterway, flowing through the scenic town of Bosa.
The area around Bosa is known for its olive oil and Malvasia wine production, offering opportunities for local tastings.
Further south along the western coast, the Sinis Peninsula beckoned. At its southernmost point, the teardrop-shaped strip of land called Capo San Marco offers a truly stunning location. Here, the sea is agitated on the west and calm on the east, adjacent to the archaeological site of Tharros, an ancient Phoenician trading town later occupied by Carthaginians and Romans. Exploring the ruins of Tharros, with the sea stretching out before you, provides a profound connection to Sardinia’s long and layered history.
From Portovesme, near the island’s southwestern corner, we took a ferry to San Pietro Island, home to the town of Carloforte. Carloforte is famously recognized for its production of bottarga di tonno, a delicacy made from salted, cured, and pressed Atlantic bluefin tuna eggs. In the local restaurants, you can sample an array of tuna dishes, from tuna heart to tuna tartare and pasta. While the local tuna fishery has been operating since 1654, it’s worth noting the global depletion of bluefin tuna populations. Despite this, the culinary heritage of Carloforte is undeniably rich and worth experiencing.
Where can you try bottarga di tonno?
San Pietro Island, particularly in Carloforte, is renowned for this tuna roe delicacy.
Many local restaurants will feature bottarga and other tuna products on their menus, often using sustainable fishing practices.
San Pietro itself is a volcanic island with dramatic, crumbly cliffs offering spectacular views. We rented scooters to explore the roughly 20-square-mile island, discovering a short hiking path known as Geosito No. 5, which led us to some incredible vistas. My husband Michael loved the dramatic coastal geology, and we spent an afternoon simply marveling at the rugged beauty.
What is the best way to see San Pietro Island?
Renting a scooter allows for flexible exploration of the island’s circumference and interior.
Look for designated hiking paths like Geosito No. 5 for stunning cliffside views and unique geological formations.
Our final day on Sardinia began gently in the small port of Calasetta, on the island of Sant’Antioco. We then drove slowly back towards Cagliari along the southwestern coast, savoring our last sunset from a small jewel of a beach, Porto Tramatzu. The drive continued, zigzagging towards Domus de Maria. The name of this town, meaning “Home of Maria,” brought to mind the Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio de André, who had a deep connection to Sardinia, his home and place of occasional confinement. It felt fitting to be passing through these evocative landscapes, contemplating the island’s enduring allure.
As we drove towards the end of our circumnavigation, through small towns and villages that sometimes comprised just a handful of old houses scattered on a hill, we were filled with a sense of grateful reflection. The journey was a tapestry of coastlines, mountains, ancient history, and culinary delights. Traveling with our children, Lily and Ethan, they too pointed out the wild donkeys and searched for the unique rock formations, adding their own sense of wonder to our adventure.
What are some charming small towns to visit?
Consider Cuglieri for a feel of authentic village life and Bosa for its riverside charm. Smaller hamlets like Modolo and Magomadas also offer picturesque stops.
Don’t be afraid to pull over in any village that catches your eye; many offer quiet charm and local insights.
Sardinia is an island that truly captivates. Its distinct identity and breathtaking landscapes make it a destination that deserves to be explored. We left with a camera full of photos and a heart full of memories, already planning our return to uncover more of its secrets.