The winding drive from Naples airport towards Sorrento is a dramatic introduction to the Amalfi Coast. Our taxi driver, a Sorrento local, expressed his joy at the arrival of the summer tourist season, explaining that winter months mean a much quieter, native-only atmosphere. This seasonal rhythm highlights the town’s distinct appeal, offering a different experience depending on when you visit. The coastal road itself is a spectacle, with narrow bridges over gorges and glimpses of luxurious cliffside villas, which truly sets the stage for exploration.
Sorrento’s Town Center
Upon arrival, sinking into our hotel room was a welcome respite after an early flight. Afterwards, a short walk led us to Sorrento’s main square, Piazza Tasso. This area serves as the town’s energetic heart, surrounded by restaurants, bars, and the expected network of gift shops. Despite the potential for tackiness, the town’s manageable size prevents it from feeling overrun. Instead, it offers a pleasant atmosphere, further enhanced by the pervasive, almost intoxicating scent of jasmine.
Sorrento is described as a beautiful place to stroll, especially at night, though daytime activities might be limited.
We found that Sorrento shines brightest as a strategic base for exploring the surrounding region. The proximity to iconic destinations like Positano, Pompeii, and the Isle of Capri makes it an ideal starting point. For those looking to save money, bypassing expensive bus tours and opting for the Sorrento train station is a smart move. While we decided to skip a trip to Positano to avoid feeling rushed, Pompeii and Capri were definite highlights on our itinerary.
Exploring Ancient Pompeii
A visit to Pompeii is an awe-inspiring experience. This ancient city, now almost an extension of Naples due to urban sprawl, is incredibly well-preserved. It’s truly staggering to see the scale and intactness of the city, with houses, street cobblestones, and even drainage systems remarkably preserved as if little time has passed in two millennia. Walking along the main avenue, you can explore countless side streets lined with ancient buildings, creating a surreal sense of stepping back in time.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Use the train from Sorrento station to reach Pompeii and Capri for cost savings.
- Be prepared for the overwhelming scale and historical significance of Pompeii.
- Consider the ferry schedule for boat trips to optimize your island visits.
The city feels strangely contemporary in its layout and features, with remnants of restaurants, large houses with gardens, and even a brothel adorned with graphic wall paintings. It’s a profound reminder of how human life, in its basic structures and desires, holds a timeless quality.
A Day Trip to Capri
Our journey to the Isle of Capri involved a ferry trip from the small harbour in Sorrento. While the 20-minute ride was scenic, the €35 round-trip ticket felt steep. Upon arrival, Capri presented a lovely, albeit somewhat underwhelming, facade. The island seemed to be populated more by tourists than locals, and the shop workers, even before peak season, carried an air of fatigue. We had a disappointing lunch at La Palette Ristorante, which offered stunning bay views but lacked culinary substance.
📍 The cost of coffees on Capri was surprisingly high, adding to a sense of being overcharged.
The return ferry ride also came with a hefty price. Capri, while picturesque, felt like a destination clinging to a bygone era of Hollywood glamour, rather than a vibrant present-day attraction. The high prices for basic amenities like coffee seemed indicative of this outdated perception.
Sorrento’s Lasting Impression
Returning to Sorrento for our final day, the familiar scents of jasmine and lemon, along with the sight of enormous lemons, were a comforting embrace. We discovered a delightful side-street restaurant that offered a truly wonderful meal paired with excellent wine. It was in moments like these, relaxing and savoring the flavors, that we found ourselves echoing the common sentiment: “We’ll be back.” This sentiment was so strong that we’ve already booked our next flights.
Where to Eat in Sorrento
When it comes to dining, Sorrento offers variety. For a more casual and traditional experience, Tavern Allegra is a great choice. This regional restaurant, located off Piazza Tasso, adds a unique touch with its owner serenading guests as they dine. While it might sound a bit kitschy, it’s genuinely fun and the food is good. If you’re looking to splurge on fine dining, Il Buco is highly recommended. Situated off Piazza San Antonino, this upscale establishment takes its cuisine seriously. The indoor vaulted basement dining area is particularly striking, creating a memorable atmosphere.
| Dining Option | Location |
|---|---|
| Tavern Allegra (Traditional) | Via Della Pieta, off Piazza Tasso |
| Il Buco (Fine Dining) | 2a Rampa Marina Piccola, off Piazza San Antonino |
Choosing Your Sorrento Stay
For accommodation, we stayed at the Grand Hotel La Favorita. This 5-star hotel is conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk from the town’s center, yet it is set back far enough to ensure a peaceful stay. The backdrop of the Bay of Naples is breathtaking. Although we didn’t have sufficient time to fully utilize the rooftop swimming pool, its bar provided a sophisticated spot to relax, mirroring the hotel’s overall classy ambiance.
The Grand Hotel La Favorita offers a quiet retreat close to Sorrento’s main attractions.
The hotel’s location allows for easy access to the town’s amenities while providing a tranquil haven. The views from the hotel are truly a highlight, and the rooftop bar offers a perfect place to unwind after a day of exploration, whether you’re enjoying a quiet moment with Michael or planning the next day’s adventure with Lily and Ethan.