My solo springtime escape to Italy was a last-minute decision, a stark contrast to my usual meticulous planning. After a long winter in Boston, the allure of a spontaneous Italian adventure called. While I’d navigated domestic solo trips before, this felt different—a real test of my self-reliance on foreign soil, a chance to push past my inhibitions about language barriers and not knowing anyone.
Exploring Liguria’s Coastal Beauty
What I discovered is that in Italy, particularly in the regions I explored, it’s almost impossible to feel lonely or unwelcome. The warmth of the people is immediate, and even my most rudimentary attempts at Italian phrases were met with genuine encouragement. This welcoming spirit was especially evident at the Grand Spa, Resort, a beautifully renovated Art Nouveau gem overlooking the Gulf of Tigullio, just a short distance from the famed Portofino.
A Grand Dame by the Sea
This stunning 1904 hotel, with its storybook pink facade, appears almost magically off Rapallo’s main street. It’s easy to see why it might be compared to the Grand Hotel Budapest, but the real showstopper here are the breathtaking 180-degree views of the Mediterranean Sea. These panoramic vistas are visible from countless floor-to-ceiling windows throughout the property, making the sea an ever-present, spectacular backdrop.
The views are a central part of the experience, perhaps most dramatically enjoyed from the outdoor terrace at La Veranda, one of the hotel’s two full-service restaurants. Sitting there, with a gentle breeze and an Aperol spritz in hand, savoring my first taste of trofie al pesto—the classic Ligurian pasta with its fragrant basil sauce—I truly understood the meaning of la dolce vita. It’s not just a phrase; it’s a way of life that Italians seem to have truly mastered.
What is trofie al pesto?
Trofie al pesto is a traditional pasta dish from the Liguria region of Italy. It features small, twisted pasta shapes—trofie—coated in a vibrant green sauce made primarily from fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan cheese, Pecorino Sardo, and olive oil.
It’s considered a quintessential dish that embodies the fresh, herbaceous flavors of the region, often enjoyed with seafood or other light accompaniments.
Sensory Delights at the Hotel
Even during my short stay, it was clear that every sensory detail at the hotel had been meticulously considered. The soundscape, for instance, was carefully curated, with music playing at specific beats per minute that changed with the time of day—faster tempos during aperitivo for liveliness, and slower, more calming rhythms in the evening. The scent of the hotel was also thoughtfully designed, incorporating the region’s abundant lemon trees into a light, citrusy fragrance created specifically for this resort location.
My seaside bedroom was an oasis of understated luxury. The Italian sun seemed to shine a little brighter there, amplified by the warm wooden floors, neutral walls, and crisp white linens. All these elements worked together, reflecting the light and enhancing the shimmering blue of the sea framed through the double doors leading to a private balcony. I had grand plans for exploring, but the hotel’s Erre Spa was an irresistible draw.
A World-Class Spa Experience
The Erre Spa spans an impressive 21,500 square feet, making it the largest spa in Liguria. It offers a range of multisensory areas, custom treatments, private spa suites, and an herbal tea room. I could easily have spent an entire day immersed in its offerings. The only real challenge was deciding which of the many experiences to try first: the Finnish sauna, the Turkish bath, a Kneipp path with alternating hot and cold foot baths, the numerous water-force showers, or the unique pebbled ice spout.
Ultimately, I opted for a Lomi-Lomi Massage, a treatment inspired by Polynesian traditions with slow, flowing movements designed to mimic ocean waves. As part of the experience, I chose a color from a wheel to set the intention for the massage; I selected an aqua blue called purezza, which means purity. The therapist then diffused the scent of papyrus and cedar while cool blue lights illuminated the wall, creating a complete sensory immersion.
What is a Lomi-Lomi massage?
Lomi-Lomi is a traditional Hawaiian massage technique characterized by long, continuous, and flowing strokes. It is often performed using the forearms as well as the hands, aiming to create a deep sense of relaxation and release.
The massage is holistic, addressing the body, mind, and spirit, and often incorporates elements like intention setting and aromatherapy to enhance the client’s well-being.
Discovering the Charm of Rapallo
After a few hours of pampering, I was ready to explore the nearby town of Rapallo, just a 15-minute walk away. Rapallo offers a more relaxed and under-touristed atmosphere compared to its more glamorous neighbor, Portofino. It’s a beautifully
preserved seaside town with buildings in sunset hues, charming stone pathways, small shops, and inviting restaurants.
In the heart of town, near the painted rotunda of the Chiosco della Musica, I found ParlaComeMangi, a traditional Italian deli. This store is a treasure trove of carefully selected Italian wines, olive oils, spreads, and pastas. The Rapallo shop, which opened in 1997, is a place where you can learn a great deal about regional specialties. If you’re lucky, you might encounter Guido Porrati, the charming general manager, whose encyclopedic knowledge of local food history is truly impressive.
A Deep Dive into Local Flavors
Guido led a pesto-making class that provided fascinating insights. I learned that there isn’t one single recipe for pesto alla Genovese; each family has its own version, passed down through generations. He also explained how herbs were historically used in cooking because spices were once much more expensive. Walking through the narrow, winding carruggio (alleyway), we watched from a shop window as Ligurian pansotti—cheese-filled pasta with fresh market herbs—were being handmade at Pastificio Dasso.
Later, we savored freshly made pansotti served in a creamy walnut sauce at the cozy restaurant, Hostaria Vecchia. Our culinary journey continued at Randazzo Panifici Pasticcerie, where we sampled another regional specialty: focaccia al formaggio, a delicious focaccia served warm with melted stracchino cheese. This taste of the local cuisine, prepared with such care and tradition, made me appreciate Italian food even more.
What is focaccia al formaggio?
Focaccia al formaggio is a thin-crust focaccia bread from Recco, Liguria, filled with soft, melted stracchino cheese. It’s known for its simple yet incredibly satisfying flavor and texture.
The dough is typically very thin, allowing the creamy cheese inside to create a delightful contrast with the slightly crispy bread. It’s often served hot, making it a popular and comforting snack or light meal.
Embracing the Aperitivo Ritual
No Italian Riviera experience would be complete without indulging in the aperitivo ritual, something I happily participated in most evenings at the hotel’s Silk Lounge Bar. While an Aperol spritz remained a favorite, I also discovered inventive cocktails, like the Flamingo Spritz, a refreshing blend of basil, champagne, and elderberry. These were often enjoyed while perusing the Nuar Gallery, also located within the hotel, which showcases rotating exhibitions of local, national, and international artists.
For my final evening, I dined at the rooftop restaurant, Le Cupole, named for its distinctive domed ceilings. With its low ceilings and large semicircular windows offering sea views, the restaurant felt both intimate and dramatic. The multi-course meal was a highlight, featuring delicate ravioli filled with pesto and buffalo mozzarella, glazed to resemble tiny tomatoes, and a vibrant lemon sorbet served in a delicate corn crisp for dessert.
Reflections on a Solo Journey
My only regret is not embarking on a solo trip like this sooner. I learned firsthand that the notion of being comfortable alone, especially with such stunning scenery, is entirely true. I found myself just as content gazing out at the sea as I was sitting on a terrace, perhaps striking up a conversation with people who might later become friends. I’m already looking forward to returning.
Visiting Italy with family adds another layer of joy to the experience. Imagine sharing those breathtaking Ligurian sea views with Michael, Lily, and Ethan, perhaps over a scoop of gelato, or them marveling at the colorful buildings of Rapallo. Even small moments like that bring such a special warmth to a family vacation, creating memories that I know we’d all cherish from our 2026 travels.