Central Italy holds a region brimming with opportunities for travelers, a place often called the “green lung of Europe.” This area, Abruzzo, is a tapestry of medieval towns, rolling vineyards, and striking Adriatic coastline, all punctuated by alpine peaks within three protected national parks. It’s a natural wonderland, home to a significant portion of European wildlife. My own experience here, after visiting Tuscany’s famous wine regions, showed me it’s a less-traveled gem, offering celebrated Montepulciano wines and charming towns nestled between mountains and the sea. Abruzzo is divided into four provinces: Chieti, Teramo, L’Aquila, and Pescara. I found myself drawn to Chieti, a hilltop town with ancient streets and a coastline dotted with fishing huts and sunbathers.
Getting to Abruzzo
Accessing this beautiful region is quite straightforward. Major international airports like Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) and Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) offer connections. You can also find some flights directly into Abruzzo Airport (PSR). For those traveling along the Adriatic coast, high-speed rail services are an excellent option. A train journey from Bologna Centrale to Pescara Central in Abruzzo takes just over three hours, offering scenic views along the way.
I recall arriving after a few days in Rome, and the contrast was immediate. The journey itself, past vineyards and villages clinging to cliffs, was a visual treat. Upon arrival, the absence of crowds was striking; the entire atmosphere felt different from the bustling capital. It was a welcome change, allowing for a more relaxed immersion into the region.
Where to Stay
My accommodation was at Castello di Semivicoli, a 17th-century castle surrounded by vineyards and mountain vistas that meet the Adriatic Sea. While the idyllic setting was amazing, my primary interest lay in the wine. This castle, now an intimate 11-room hotel, offers a unique glimpse into the region’s heritage. The Masciarelli family, a name synonymous with Abruzzo wines like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano, are the driving force behind its revitalization. They purchased Castello di Semivicoli in 2004, carefully preserving its historical elements, including an old olive press and antique furnishings.
Spending afternoons by the pool, sampling Masciarelli wines, became a ritual. The Villa Gemma, a black fruit-forward varietal, and the crisp, cherry-pink Cerasuolo rosé were particular favorites. For guests interested in a deeper dive, wine-focused activities like cooking classes, private vineyard tours, and visits to local organic vineyards are often available. I remember Michael remarking on how peaceful it was, a perfect escape for us all to unwind.
What to Eat
Abruzzo’s diverse geography, bridging pastoral landscapes and a coastal setting, results in a rich culinary scene. You’ll find a delightful mix of seafood, legumes, and meats. Thinly salted mutton skewers, known as arrosticini, are a regional specialty and a must-try. These are often found at local fairs, or sagre, where you can also taste ventricina, a spicy salami, along with fresh artichokes and bread.
The pasta here is also noteworthy. Spaghetti alla chitarra, handmade using a stringed instrument similar to a guitar, has been a tradition for over 200 years. It’s frequently served with sugo di pallottine, a tomato sauce featuring tiny meatballs. Along the coast, brodetto alla pescarese is a popular seafood stew. This slow-cooked dish combines tomatoes, pepperoncini, garlic, and a variety of small fish. For dessert, look for confetti, sugar-coated almonds, or the soft chocolate nougat from L’Aquila, known as torrone nurzia. Lily even enjoyed trying the sweet almonds, finding them to be a delightful treat.
Things to Do
Outdoor enthusiasts will find Abruzzo offers a wealth of activities. In the mountain village of Castel del Monte, Gran Sasso National Park provides a biodiverse landscape accessible to all visitors. Established as a protected area in 1995, the park features olive groves, almond trees, and designated areas for mountain biking and horseback riding. The vast Campo Imperatore plateau, sometimes called Abruzzo’s “Little Tibet” for its expansive views, is also within Gran Sasso and accessible year-round.
Along the coast, the Via Verde is a scenic 26-mile path bordering the Trabocchi coast. Here, you’ll see traditional fishermen’s huts on stilts extending over the sea. Dining on grilled seafood at a restaurant suspended over the water, like Trabocco Valle Grotte, during a sunset is a memorable experience. The Punta Aderci Nature Reserve, also on the Trabocchi coastline, protects dunes, beaches, and clifftops, offering opportunities for scenic bike rides or relaxing on its pebbly shores. I think Ethan would have loved exploring the unique stilt houses, imagining himself as a little fisherman.
The Wines of Abruzzo
Abruzzo’s proximity to both the sea and the Apennine Mountains creates an ideal Mediterranean climate for viticulture, supporting around 250 wineries that produce substantial quantities of wine annually. The region is particularly known for its full-bodied Montepulciano grape, which accounts for about 80 percent of its wine production. Other notable varietals include Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Pecorino, and the rosé Cerasuolo.
The area around Chieti is a primary wine-producing zone, including wines with the coveted DOC quality assurance label. A visit to a winery like Masciarelli offers a chance to tour barrel rooms and enjoy curated tastings, often paired with local Abruzzese food. The dry, herbal white wine, Trebbiano, pairs wonderfully with the region’s seafood dishes and fried specialties. For a different perspective, consider visiting Pasetti Winery, located high in the National Park of Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga. Their Pecorino, with its grapefruit aromas, is an excellent accompaniment to seafood.
Exploring these diverse vineyards provides a real taste of Abruzzo’s dedication to its wine heritage.
Discover the heart of central Italy and its distinctive charm.