When the most stunning coastlines were being distributed, Cinque Terre was among the first in line. This six-mile stretch of cliffs in Liguria, Italy, is a true gem. It features five incredibly picturesque villages nestled into the cliffs, a breathtaking coastline, and over 70 miles of panoramic hiking trails, all protected by a national park to keep it pristine. It’s no wonder this area is one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations.
Navigating the Crowds
I remember my first visit; the trains between villages were so packed, it felt like a sardine can. My advice? Try to stay overnight. When the day-trippers leave, the villages transform. If you can, book a stay in Riomaggiore or Manarola, the southernmost villages. Staying overnight there grants you special access to the Via dell’Amore, a cliffside footpath that beautifully connects them, which reopened in 2024.
Of course, the villages themselves are tiny, so don’t expect many hotel amenities like breakfast. For a more traditional hotel experience, consider staying in nearby La Spezia, Levanto, or Portovenere. All three are easily accessible to the Cinque Terre villages by boat, and La Spezia and Levanto also have train connections.
Another tip for avoiding the worst of the crowds is to swap weekends for weekdays. Also, aim for spring (April, May) or autumn (late September, October) instead of the peak summer months. The five main villages – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare – are incredibly popular. But venture beyond them, and a different, quieter world opens up.
Beyond the Villages
I’ve found that hiking trails other than the famous Sentiero Azzurro, which links the villages, offer a more serene experience. Consider taking a bus up to the clifftop hamlets of Volastra or San Bernardino; the views from these spots are truly out of this world. And then there’s the wine! The locals have been cultivating vines on these near-vertical cliffs for centuries. Participating in a cliffside wine tasting, sampling the unique, sea-salted Cinque Terre DOC blend, is an experience I always cherish.
Day trips around the villages can feel overwhelming due to the sheer number of visitors. However, the longer I spend in this region and the further I wander from the main tourist hubs, the more I appreciate how truly special it is. Despite the bustle, the beauty of Liguria, this incredible rocky carpet descending Italy’s northwestern coast, is undeniable. Cinque Terre, with its picture-perfect villages, is the jewel in its crown.
Exploring Portovenere
Just south of the five iconic villages lies Portovenere, often considered an honorary sixth. It sits beside the Gulf of Poets, its pastel buildings so captivating they’re a UNESCO World Heritage site. Arriving back here after visiting the Cinque Terre villages by boat feels so wonderfully calm. The Grand Hotel Portovenere, a former monastery, offers a luxurious retreat with plush suites boasting mesmerising views. Dining on its veranda feels like a perfect post-hike indulgence.
Monterosso’s Seaside Charm
Monterosso al Mare offers a different vibe. The Hotel Marina, a family-run establishment, is nestled in the older, upper part of the village. This gives you access to the heart of Cinque Terre before the main crowds descend, but you’re also in a charming seaside resort with a rare sandy beach for Liguria. The rooms are simple, with lovely pastel frescoes that give them a unique character. If you can, request a room with a terrace for a special touch.
For those seeking a connection to nature, Buranco, an agriturismo just outside Monterosso, is a delightful option. Tucked away up a cobbled path, this tranquil vineyard offers simple apartments surrounded by rolling hills, a peaceful lemon grove, and olive trees. It’s a wonderful place to explore, and the restaurant serves exceptional local dishes, alongside wine tastings.
Levanto’s Coastal Base
Levanto, a resort town known for its surf, sand, and pebbles, makes an excellent base for exploring Cinque Terre, as it’s just minutes away by train. The Park Hotel Argento is a fantastic choice here, featuring a heated pool and lovely sea views. The hotel’s design evokes a Ligurian village, and its spa, with subtle Asian-inspired touches, is a perfect place to unwind. Dining on the restaurant’s deck, enjoying incredible risottos, is a highlight.
Another historic option in Levanto is La Madonnetta. This distinguished property, an ancient chapel, blends old and new beautifully in its rooms. A small number offer sea views, but the panoramic views from the sundeck, complete with a hot tub, are accessible to all. The breakfast, often served on the sundeck, features delicious regional specialities.
Portofino’s Glamour
Slightly north of Cinque Terre, perched above Portofino’s iconic harbour, is Splendido, A Belmond Hotel. This is the place to be if you want to experience the Cinque Terre villages by day and immerse yourself in Italian Riviera glamour by night. Housed in a former Benedictine monastery, the hotel offers breathtaking views from its balconies adorned with bougainvillea. The interiors are a stunning blend of Ligurian heritage and contemporary design. Dining at La Terrazza, with its candlelit terrace overlooking the bay, is an unforgettable experience.
Peaceful Retreats
If you prefer tranquility away from the main tourist hustle but still want access to the villages, consider Le Grazie. Hotel della Baia, located in this quiet bay between La Spezia and Portovenere, offers simple, retro-styled rooms and a pool overlooking the water. From here, you can easily hop on a ferry to Portovenere and then continue to Cinque Terre.
La Spezia Options
For an affordable getaway, Allegroitalia La Spezia 5 Terre is perched on a hill above La Spezia’s port, offering modern rooms with panoramic views. The friendly staff are a real asset, and don’t miss a sunset drink on the rooftop. Another practical option in La Spezia is CDH La Spezia. Its convenient location and useful lift access, especially in Liguria’s steep towns, make it a very accessible choice, with the train station just a short stroll away.
Staying in Manarola
Manarola itself encapsulates the beauty of Cinque Terre for many, with its colourful houses clinging to steep slopes. For those seeking a more intimate experience, B&B Da Baranin offers pared-down, stylish rooms. Run by two sisters, it provides a wonderful sense of personal service. While there’s no restaurant on-site, the breakfast, served in-room or on the terrace, is a delightful spread of local goodies.
Monterosso’s Culinary Delights
Foodies visiting Monterosso will want to check out Porto Roca. Its dining terrace, La Terrazza, curves along the cliff edge, offering spectacular views. The pool, perched high above the sea, is also a major draw. Seafood is the star here, making for a memorable dining experience.
When to Visit
Thinking about when to visit is key to maximizing your experience. I’ve found that visiting during the shoulder seasons – spring and autumn – makes a significant difference. The weather is usually pleasant, and the crowds are much more manageable. Early mornings and late afternoons are also your best friends for experiencing the villages without the peak midday rush. Taking the time to explore the less-trodden paths, perhaps enjoying a local wine tasting, truly allows you to appreciate the unique charm of this unforgettable stretch of the Italian Riviera.