Matera, Italy, feels like stepping into a different era, a place where history is etched into the very stone. It’s a city unlike any other, known as the “City of Caves,” and rightly so. Here, ancient dwellings carved directly into limestone cliffs have been continuously inhabited for thousands of years, making it one of the world’s oldest continuously settled sites. I’m so glad we decided to explore this unique corner of Southern Italy; it truly exceeded all expectations.
Exploring the Sassi Districts
Matera is divided into two main historic districts, the Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano. Walking through these areas is an experience in itself. The narrow, winding paths and staircases lead you through a labyrinth of cave dwellings, many of which offer glimpses into a way of life that stretches back to the Palaeolithic period. It’s easy to get lost, but that’s part of the magic. Every corner reveals a new, stunning vista, with houses stacked seemingly on top of each other, all carved from the soft tufa rock.
Matera is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its incredibly preserved ancient cave dwellings, showcasing evidence of human settlement dating back over 9,000 years.
Church of Saint Mary of Idris
One of the most iconic sights is the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, also known as the Rock Church. This 15th-century Catholic church is literally carved into the Monterrone hilltop. The views from here are phenomenal, looking out over the Sassi. Inside, the small space contains beautiful remnants of medieval frescoes that really transport you back in time. It’s a place that feels both sacred and deeply connected to the earth.
San Pietro Caveoso
Just a stone’s throw from Saint Mary of Idris is San Pietro Caveoso. Unlike many structures in Matera, this church isn’t carved directly into the rock; it’s built on the cliff edge. Originally dating back to the 13th century, its facade shows a 17th-century Romanesque-Baroque style after renovations. It’s free to enter, and the ancient frescoes and decorated ceilings inside are quite impressive. Standing here, you get a real sense of the city’s history and its dramatic setting.
Wandering the Old Town
Honestly, one of the best ways to experience Matera is simply to walk. Dedicating a good portion of your time to just wandering through the old town, letting yourself get a little lost on the cobbled streets, is how you truly discover its soul. It’s not just about the visuals; you can feel the profound historical significance of the place with every step you take. For us, it was a much more meaningful way to connect with Matera’s past.
Uncovering Cave Dwellings
Visiting a genuine cave house is essential when in Matera. These ancient grottoes offer a unique insight into the lives of people who lived here for millennia. I recommend picking one or two specific cave house museums to visit, as they can start to feel a bit similar after a while. Seeing how families lived, often alongside their animals, in these carved spaces before the city’s transformation is quite moving.
Casa Grotta “C’era una volta”
We really enjoyed our visit to Casa Grotta “C’era una volta.” It’s a small museum filled with traditional furnishings and even sculptures of people and a donkey, effectively illustrating the very tight living quarters. The audio guide was very informative, providing context about the daily lives of the inhabitants. It gave us a clear picture of what life was like for families before the residents were moved to modern housing.
Casa Grotta nei Sassi
Another excellent cave house to explore is Casa Grotta nei Sassi. This one is conveniently located near the Rock Church and also showcases traditional furnishings and tools used by former residents. It offers a similar, yet distinct, look into the historical living conditions within the Sassi. We found these visits gave us a much deeper appreciation for the city’s evolution.
Discovering Cultural Heritage
Beyond the cave dwellings themselves, Matera offers several excellent museums that delve into its rich cultural and rural history. These places helped us understand the broader context of life in this region.
The Laboratory Museum of Rural Life
Located in a renovated 16th-century building, this ethno-anthropological museum provided a fantastic look at the local rural communities and ancient crafts of Matera. It has an extensive collection of tools and historical artifacts that are perfect for understanding the city’s cultural heritage. It’s a must-visit if you want a deeper understanding of Matera’s past and the people who shaped it.
Matera Cathedral
The Matera Cathedral, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Bruna, is hard to miss as it sits at the highest visible point in the city. Completed in 1270, it’s dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is considered the heart of Matera. Inside, you can admire its Baroque architecture and see the frescoes in the Chapel of San Giuseppe. The location of the cathedral also offers a wonderful viewpoint over the Sassi, making it a great spot for photos.
Matera Cathedral, completed in 1270, offers panoramic views of the Sassi districts and is a central landmark in the city.
Matera Olive Oil Museum, MOOM
Given Italy’s dedication to olive oil, it’s no surprise that Matera has a museum for it. The MOOM is tucked away in an old underground oil mill. It’s a small but incredibly informative experience that guides you through the traditional methods and tools used in olive oil production. The best part? You get to taste some of the olive oil, which is a lovely sensory experience and a great reminder of the region’s agricultural roots.
Church of Purgatory
Just outside the main Sassi area, you’ll find the Church of Purgatory (Chiesa del Purgatorio). Built between 1725 and 1747, this church was dedicated to prayers for souls in purgatory. Its doors are decorated with intriguing skulls and bones, and the interior features paintings with similar themes. It offers a different, somewhat somber, but unique perspective on religious art and history in Matera.
Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli
For that postcard-perfect view of Matera, head to the Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli. A short walk from Via Ridola leads you to this viewpoint, where you can capture the iconic panorama of the Sassi. It’s an absolutely breathtaking sight, especially at different times of day; sunrise and sunset paint the ancient city in incredible colours.
Sassi in Miniatura
Nearby the Matera Cathedral is a truly unique attraction called Sassi in Miniatura. This is an entire limestone model of Matera, meticulously carved from stone by the artist Eustachio Rizzi over three years. It’s a free-to-visit masterpiece (donations are appreciated) that gives you a different perspective on the city’s intricate layout and scale. It was fascinating to see our surroundings recreated in such detail.
Ipogeo Matersum
Ipogeo Matersum, meaning “Underground Matera,” is a fascinating subterranean museum. Walking through this network of caves feels like exploring another city beneath the city. It preserves the remains of homes, churches, and even an ancient quarry, offering a profound sense of Matera’s deep history. It’s a place that encourages quiet reflection on the ingenuity and resilience of the people who lived here.
Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is an important religious site, dedicated to the founder of the Franciscan order. This 13th-century basilica is a notable landmark, situated on the busy Piazza San Francesco. It’s free to visit and offers a serene space for contemplation. While not in Assisi itself, its connection to the saint makes it a significant pilgrimage spot.
MUSMA di Matera
The Museum of Contemporary Sculpture of Matera, or MUSMA, is a unique space housed within carved cave interiors. It showcases over 300 works of art, focusing on 20th-century Italian and international sculpture, as well as ceramics and pottery. It’s a small fee to enter, but the experience of seeing contemporary art within such an ancient setting is truly remarkable. The building itself is as much a part of the exhibition as the art.
Dining with a View
Matera offers countless opportunities to enjoy local cuisine with incredible views. We loved finding charming spots tucked away in the ancient streets where we could relax with a glass of wine or enjoy a meal. While we found many places offered stunning panoramas, like at Il Terrazzino where we had a memorable pasta dish, prices could sometimes be on the higher side for the portion sizes. Still, the overall experience of dining in such a unique setting was absolutely worth it.
Dining in Matera often comes with breathtaking views of the Sassi, though prices can vary for comparable food quality.
Murgia Materana Park
For a different perspective on Matera, I highly recommend exploring Murgia Materana Park (Parco della Murgiana Materana). This extensive regional park surrounds the city and offers rugged landscapes dotted with more ancient cave churches hidden within the terrain. The views of Matera from across the ravine are spectacular. It’s a UNESCO site for a reason, and a great option for those who enjoy hiking and discovering more of the area’s historical and natural beauty.
Palombaro Lungo
One of Matera’s most impressive feats of engineering is the Palombaro Lungo, a massive subterranean cistern carved into the rock directly beneath the main plaza. This is the city’s largest public cistern, designed to collect rainwater, and it can hold an astonishing 5 million liters of water. Carved in the 16th century and expanded over time, it’s now open for visitors for a small fee. Walking through this vast, ancient water storage system is a truly unique experience.
Where to Stay in Matera
Deciding to stay overnight in Matera was one of the best travel decisions we made. It allows you to experience the city after the day-trippers have left, seeing the Sassi illuminated at night, which is simply magical. Waking up there also means enjoying a more relaxed pace and potentially staying in one of the famous cave accommodations.
Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita
For a truly distinctive stay, Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita offers rooms within the Sassi itself. These are simple stone rooms that provide a unique cave-living experience, complete with modern conveniences. The hotel features an on-site restaurant, Wi-Fi, and even a hot tub. It offers a wonderful opportunity to truly immerse yourself in the historic atmosphere.
Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa
If you’re looking for a more luxurious experience, the Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa is a fantastic choice. Located just a short walk from Matera Cathedral, this five-star hotel provides an unforgettable stay. It boasts impressive amenities, including a spa and a pool, all while being situated within the incredible cave structures. For Michael and me, having a bit of pampering after days of exploring was a real treat.
- Plan at least two full days to explore Matera to get a good feel for its history and sights.
- Wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be doing a lot of walking on uneven, cobbled paths and stairs.
- Consider booking a guided tour, especially for the Sassi, to gain deeper historical context.
- Stay overnight to experience the magic of the Sassi lit up at night.
Matera is a destination that truly stays with you. Its ancient Sassi, rich history, and unique atmosphere create an unforgettable travel experience. I hope this guide helps you plan your own incredible visit to this gem of Southern Italy.