Matera, a city carved from pale gold limestone in Italy’s Basilicata region, offers a history layered more deeply than any pastry. Its ancient cave districts, Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, are a breathtaking testament to human ingenuity, with dwellings hewn directly into fossil-rich rock strata and stacked in a complex, almost organic fashion. These sassi, continuously inhabited from prehistoric times until the mid-20th century, were once considered Italy’s “shame” due to overcrowding and poverty. Now, a resurgence of local entrepreneurs has revitalized the city, preparing it to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019, showcasing elegant hotels within vaulted cave rooms and refined interpretations of regional cuisine, like orecchiette with fennel sausage served with dense semolina bread.
The Sassi districts are composed of individual dwellings carved into fossil-stuffed strata and stacked on top of each other like cells in a haphazardly constructed beehive.
Exploring Matera on foot is the ultimate way to grasp its labyrinthine layout. Wandering through Sasso Caveoso, you might find yourself standing before a ninth-century graveyard, then turn to see an impeccable Baroque palazzo, and look down to discover an eleventh-century church that’s now a family home, its seven-hundred-year-old frescoes still adorning the calcareous walls.
Where to Stay in the Sassi
For an experience that truly connects you to Matera’s ancient past, staying within the sassi is essential. Options range from monastic simplicity to palatial comfort, all set against this extraordinary backdrop.
The intimate atmosphere of Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita is unlike anything I’ve experienced. The quiet of the cave rooms, punctuated only by candlelight, felt deeply peaceful. Even with young children, the unique setting offered a sense of wonder for Lily, who was fascinated by the idea of sleeping in a cave.
If you prefer to avoid cave living, even in its most elegant form, Francis Ford Coppola offers a luxurious alternative just outside Matera. Palazzo Margherita, located in Bernalda (the birthplace of his grandfather), provides a refined retreat.
Even closer to the heart of Matera, Solosud B&B offers a more intimate lodging experience.
| Accommodation Type | Location Focus | Atmosphere | Notable Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita | Historic Sassi Caves | Monastic, serene | Cave rooms, candlelit ambiance, historic church dining |
| Il Palazzotto Residence & Winery | Palace and Caves | Elegant, contemporary | Palatial setting, local design elements, wine tasting optional |
| Palazzo Margherita | Countryside Villa (40 min drive) | Luxurious, family-oriented | Designer suites, swimming pool, cinema room |
| Solosud B&B | Historic Town Center | Cozy, traditional | Antiques, handmade textiles, homey breakfast |
Dining in Matera’s Ancient Setting
Matera’s culinary scene embraces its heritage, offering dishes rooted in the region’s peasant traditions while incorporating sophisticated touches. You can dine in ancient cellars, elegant modern spaces, or charming trattorias.
We found Osteria al Casale to be incredibly authentic. The simple setting felt like stepping back in time, and the food was hearty and delicious. Michael had seconds of the cavatelli, which he rarely does!
For a sweet treat, I Vizi degli Angeli is a must-visit.
Area 8 offers a more contemporary, lively atmosphere for drinks and light bites.
Art, Culture, and Shopping
Matera’s rich history is reflected in its artistic offerings and artisanal crafts. Exploring these spaces provides a deeper understanding of the city’s enduring spirit.
Discover contemporary sculpture at Matera’s Museum of Contemporary Sculpture.
For unique souvenirs, Daciarte offers handcrafted ceramics.
No visit to Matera is complete without tasting its iconic bread, best experienced at Il Forno di Gennaro.
We bought some focaccia from Il Forno di Gennaro for a picnic lunch in the Murgia National Park, and it was perfect. Ethan devoured his share, and Michael and I appreciated the fresh, simple flavors.
Matera’s historic center, particularly the Sassi districts, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Exploring its ancient alleyways and cave dwellings offers a unique glimpse into centuries of human habitation.
Matera presents a travel experience that is both deeply historic and vibrantly alive, a place where ancient stone meets contemporary culture. Its unique landscape and rich heritage offer endless opportunities for exploration and discovery.