Matera, in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, is a city that truly stops you in your tracks. It’s famous for its Sassi, ancient districts where homes are carved directly into the rock. This is a place that has transformed from being overlooked to being a celebrated European Capital of Culture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for good reason. It’s a city that reveals its extraordinary beauty the longer you stay, with every passing hour offering a new perspective.
Exploring the Sassi districts
Matera’s Sassi are divided into two main areas: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisiano. Sasso Caveoso feels particularly ancient, especially in its more remote sections. Within Sasso Barisiano, you’ll find significant churches like San Nicola dei Greci, adorned with 13th-century frescoes, and the 11th-12th century Madonna della Virtù church. It’s easy to get a little lost wandering through these stone streets, but that’s part of the charm. If you ever feel unsure of where you are, simply head uphill, and you’ll eventually reach the “other” Matera, the more modern part of the city known as Civita.
Matera’s Sassi districts are classified into two main areas: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisiano, each offering unique historical and architectural characteristics.
When exploring the Sassi, I found that letting the light guide me was the best approach. Even on a grey day, sunlight filters through openings in the rock, creating a truly magical atmosphere. It’s a stark contrast to the sometimes stark sorrowful beauty Carlo Levi described but equally touching.
Musma Museum of Contemporary Sculpture
One of Matera’s most unique cultural offerings is Musma, the Museum of Contemporary Sculpture. Housed within Palazzo Pomarici, a 16th-century building, and extending into various excavated chambers within the Sasso Caveoso, Musma is a testament to the area’s rock-hewn architecture. The museum showcases Italian and international sculpture from the late 1800s to the present day, including sculptures, ceramics, jewelry, and graphics. It’s considered the most important Italian museum dedicated to sculpture. I found that the best way to experience Musma is not to follow the provided map, but to let the light and sounds of the Sassi guide you through its many spaces. It’s a truly distinctive experience, blurring the lines between art and environment, making it the world’s only “cave” museum.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Musma is closed on Mondays.
- Opening hours are typically 10 AM to 2 PM and 4 PM to 8 PM from April to September.
- Allow ample time to wander and get lost within the museum’s unique spaces.
Walking through Musma, with its silence punctuated by the echoes of footsteps and the play of light, felt like a journey through time. The scale of the art often felt amplified by the intimate, cave-like setting, creating a profound appreciation for both the art and the architecture that houses it.
Walking tours and city views
While the Sassi are undoubtedly the main draw, the higher section of Matera, known as Civita, offers its own set of historical sites and stunning vistas. I found that visiting these areas at dawn or dusk offers unparalleled perspectives. The play of light on the stone during these times transforms the city into something truly magical. It’s a quieter time, when you can truly soak in the atmosphere before the day truly begins.
A recommended walking tour should include the Civita area before descending into the Sassi. You might want to seek out the San Biagio church, though its accessibility is limited to specific dates. As you move towards the city center, the San Giovanni Battista church presents a fascinating blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Arabesque architectural styles. In Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the San Domenico church and convent, with its distinctive rose window depicting the symbol of the Dominicans, is also worth a visit. For art lovers, Palazzo Lanfranchi houses the National Museum of Medieval and Modern Art, home to Carlo Levi’s significant painting “Lucania 61,” which provides crucial insight into the region’s complex past.
📍 Consider visiting the higher parts of Matera, including Civita, at dawn for the most serene and visually stunning experience of the Sassi.
For an absolutely breathtaking panoramic view of Matera and the Sassi, the Belvedere viewpoint is an essential stop. It’s particularly impactful shortly after arriving in the city, as it provides a complete overview of the Sassi’s layout and scale, something difficult to grasp when you are within them. The Murgia Materana Park, accessible via the Statale 7 road, offers this spectacular vantage point. Whether you go in the morning light or at sunset, the view is unforgettable. It’s a place where the sheer uniqueness of Matera truly hits home. I remember bringing Lily here one afternoon, and even at seven, she was wide-eyed at the vastness of it all.
The Crypt of the Original Sin
A visit outside the immediate city center leads to the Crypt of the Original Sin. Known as the “rocky Sistine Chapel,” this site features well-preserved 8th and 9th-century frescoes that beautifully represent Benedictine and Benevento art forms. The work of the “Flower Painter from Matera” is evident here, with vivid depictions that have survived centuries. While the frescoes are fascinating, the journey to the crypt itself offers equally rewarding views, especially on a clear day.
It’s important to note that a reservation is necessary for the Crypt of the Original Sin, and it’s best reached by car as public transport options are limited. The drive there also offers glimpses of the Gravina river and the abandoned iron bridge, a relic of a never-completed railway line, serving as a poignant reminder of the region’s past challenges. The crypt was rediscovered in the 1960s, having been used as a shelter for animals, and the restoration work has revealed a glimpse into its former glory. Visiting this ancient sacred space, even with some frescoes lost to time, is a deeply evocative experience.
Culinary Delights of Matera
To truly understand Matera and its people, you must immerse yourself in its culinary traditions. Food is a serious and cherished aspect of life here, with many dishes deeply connected to local celebrations and history. You’ll find numerous trattorias and inns offering their regional specialties as you wander through the city.
Around the Christmas season, you might encounter signs advertising “pettole,” a delightful fried pancake made from bran flour, water, salt, and yeast. I found the sweeter versions, often dusted with sugar, to be a particular treat. For something more substantial, the Matera bread is renowned, and a loaf from the Pane e Pace bakery is a source of local pride. I made sure to get one to enjoy with our meals during our stay.
Typical Materan dishes often feature hearty ingredients, reflecting the region’s agricultural heritage and traditional cooking methods.
Meat plays a significant role in Materan cuisine. A traditional dish is “pignata,” a slow-cooked stew of goat meat, potatoes, celery, onions, and tomatoes, baked in a special watertight terracotta pot of the same name. This dish is sealed with dough and cooked for several hours in a wood oven, then served with grated pecorino cheese. Another regional specialty is “marro,” a flavorful roll made from lamb innards wrapped in the animal’s own gut. For a sweet finale, try the “cartellate,” a delicate pastry made with vincotto, a type of cooked wine must, a treat whose origins are debated with the nearby region of Puglia.
Visiting Santa Lucia alle Malve
Nestled within the Sasso Caveoso is the Santa Lucia alle Malve church. This site holds significant historical importance as it was the first female monastery of the Benedictine Order, dating back to the 8th century. It’s considered the most important structure of its kind in Matera’s history. Finding it can feel like a small adventure, but the reward is immense. Reaching the humble portal carved into the rock, you’ll discover a truly magical location. The ancient frescoes found here, some over a thousand years old, are remarkably well-preserved, a testament to the skilled techniques employed by Matera’s master painters throughout the centuries. It’s a place that feels untouched by time, offering a quiet space for reflection amidst the Sassi.
📍 Santa Lucia alle Malve is an 8th-century Benedictine monastery with exceptionally preserved ancient frescoes, making it a must-visit within the Sasso Caveoso.
I love discovering places like Santa Lucia alle Malve. It’s these less-publicized spots, often requiring a bit more effort to find, that truly reveal the depth of a place’s history and culture. The intricate details in the frescoes, even after all these years, tell stories that resonate deeply.
Day trip to the Murgia Materana Park
For those looking to extend their exploration beyond the city limits, the Murgia Materana Park, located across the Gravina river, offers a different perspective on Matera’s unique landscape. The park is dotted with numerous rock-hewn churches and ancient cave dwellings, echoing the history of the Sassi. Hiking through the park provides stunning views back towards Matera, especially during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset.
Crossing the Statale 7 road is the key to accessing these areas. The scenery is dramatic, with rugged ravines and the ubiquitous rock formations that define this region. It’s a chance to connect with the natural environment that has shaped Matera’s existence for millennia. Even a short walk into the park can feel like stepping back in time. I took Michael and the kids for a brief outing here, and even Ethan, our youngest, was fascinated by the strange shapes of the rocks.
The park is also home to vantage points that offer the iconic views of the Sassi, such as the Belvedere Murgia Timone mentioned earlier. It’s a place where you can truly appreciate the architectural ingenuity and the enduring spirit of the people who have inhabited this dramatic landscape for thousands of years.
Matera is a city that demands to be explored slowly, with an open mind and a willingness to get lost. Its transformation from a place of hardship to a celebrated cultural hub is a powerful story, and experiencing its ancient stones and rich traditions firsthand is an unforgettable journey.