Consider Matera, a city carved into the southern Italian landscape of Basilicata. It’s a place often overlooked by travelers who stick to the more frequented paths of Rome, Florence, and Venice. Yet, Matera offers a journey back in time, with a history deeply embedded in its unique cave dwellings.
You might have seen its striking scenery in films, adding to its mystique. This ancient city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, presents a dramatic transformation from its past struggles to its current status as a destination of emerging interest. It’s a destination that rewards those who venture off the beaten path.
Matera is an absolute must-visit for anyone wanting to experience a truly unique corner of Italy. The city’s integration of ancient cave structures into modern living is breathtaking, and the food scene, though simple, is incredibly flavorful. You’ll leave feeling like you’ve stepped out of a history book.
Exploring the Sassi
The heart of Matera lies in its Sassi districts, remarkable areas where homes and churches have been hewn directly into the rock. Walking through the Sassi di Matera feels like stepping into another era, with stone stairways weaving through ancient cave dwellings that have been transformed into hotels, restaurants, and artisan shops.
The Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano are the two primary Sassi areas. Sasso Caveoso is known for its more primitive cave dwellings, some still retaining their ancient, raw character. Sasso Barisano, on the other hand, showcases more refined cave structures that have been extensively renovated into comfortable accommodations and businesses. Wandering these pathways offers endless opportunities for photography, with panoramic views appearing around every corner.
The Sassi districts were once considered a place of poverty and hardship, earning the moniker “the shame of Italy.” By the mid-20th century, the government relocated the inhabitants to modern housing. However, a comprehensive restoration effort beginning in the late 20th century revitalized these ancient spaces, transforming them into the unique attractions they are today.
The sheer scale and intricate layout of the Sassi are impressive. You can spend hours simply tracing the winding alleys, discovering hidden courtyards, and marveling at how human life has adapted to this remarkable topography over millennia. It’s essential to wear comfortable walking shoes, as the terrain is uneven and involves many stairs and steep inclines.
Ancient Churches and Cave Homes
Within the Sassi, you’ll find numerous Rupestrian churches, or rock-hewn churches, adorned with ancient frescoes. Chiesa San Pietro Barisano is one such church, offering insight into the spiritual life of past inhabitants. Exploring these churches provides a tangible connection to Matera’s deep religious and artistic heritage.
Visiting a preserved cave home, like Casa Noha, offers a direct look at how families lived in these dwellings. These often modest spaces highlight the ingenuity and resilience required to inhabit such unique surroundings. It’s a stark contrast to modern living and provides a powerful educational experience about daily life centuries ago.
- Explore the Sasso Caveoso for a more rustic experience and Sasso Barisano for more renovated spaces.
- Wear comfortable shoes as the Sassi are characterized by uneven terrain and many stairs.
- Visit Rupestrian churches to see ancient frescoes and preserved cave homes for a glimpse into historical living.
Culinary Delights of Basilicata
Matera’s food scene is a testament to the region’s tradition of cucina povera, or peasant cooking. This philosophy emphasizes simple, local ingredients prepared with skill to create deep, satisfying flavors. You’ll find hearty pastas, flavourful breads, and delicious local cheeses and cured meats that are both accessible and incredibly tasty.
One standout dish is cavatelli con peperoni cruschi. These are small, hand-rolled pasta shells served with dried, sweet peppers from the Lucania region that have been fried until crispy. They add a unique crunchy texture and a subtle sweetness to the dish. This, combined with ricotta salata and toasted breadcrumbs, makes for a truly memorable meal. It’s a perfect example of how simple ingredients can create something extraordinary.
The local bread, Pane di Matera, is renowned for its long shelf life and distinct flavour, often made from ancient durum wheat varieties. It’s the perfect accompaniment to local charcuterie, such as lonza, a cured pork loin that is exceptionally tender and flavourful. Pairing these with a glass of local Aglianico wine creates a simple yet sublime experience.
For those with a sweet tooth, Matera doesn’t disappoint. Gelato is ubiquitous in Italy, and Matera offers fantastic options. Look for artisanal shops that use regional ingredients, offering flavours that might include local nuts or fruits. After a day of exploring the slopes of the Sassi, a cool, creamy gelato is the perfect treat.
A Picnic in Matera
One of the most delightful ways to experience Matera is to create your own picnic. Several local shops offer charcuterie, cheeses, and regional specialities that are perfect for an impromptu feast with a view. Imagine enjoying local wine, olives, and freshly baked bread while overlooking the ancient cityscape as the sun begins to set.
Il Buongustaio is a recommended stop for sourcing these picnic essentials. They offer a selection of high-quality local products that make for an unforgettable al fresco dining experience. It’s a chance to sample the region’s bounty at your own pace and in a setting that is simply unparalleled.
Beyond the Sassi
While the Sassi are the main draw, Matera also offers opportunities for exploration beyond its ancient core. The Parco della Murgia Materana, located across the ravine from the Sassi, provides a different perspective of the city and the surrounding landscape. This area is dotted with more Rupestrian churches and offers hiking trails through dramatic ravines.
Hiking in the Parco della Murgia Materana allows you to experience the natural environment that shaped Matera. You can walk along the Gravina stream or explore smaller cave systems and rock formations. The views looking back towards the Sassi from this side of the ravine are particularly striking, especially during dawn and dusk.
When hiking in the Parco della Murgia Materana, consider bringing water and snacks, as facilities are limited. Wear sturdy shoes suitable for rocky and uneven terrain. The park offers a chance for quiet reflection and a deeper appreciation of the region’s geological and historical significance.
For families traveling with children, the sheer novelty of the cave dwellings can be fascinating. Lily, my seven-year-old, was captivated by staying in a cave hotel, and Ethan, our four-year-old, loved exploring the maze-like streets. The open spaces of the park also provided room for them to run around. While the climbs can be challenging, the discoveries around every corner kept them engaged.
Rupestrian churches in and around Matera
Art and Local Crafts
Matera is also home to a growing community of artisans. You can find small shops selling handcrafted jewelry, ceramics, art, and other unique souvenirs that reflect the local culture and history. These items often draw inspiration from the Sassi and the traditions of Basilicata, making them meaningful keepsakes.
It’s worth taking time to browse these boutiques. You might find a piece of pottery inspired by the cave architecture or unique jewelry incorporating local stones. Purchasing these items directly supports local artists and provides a tangible connection to your visit. We found a lovely ceramic piece depicting the Sassi for our mantelpiece.
| Area | Best For | What to See | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sasso Caveoso | Authenticity, history buffs | Primitive cave dwellings, Rupestrian churches | Steep inclines, rustic feel |
| Sasso Barisano | Comfort, modern amenities | Renovated cave hotels, boutiques, restaurants | More polished appearance |
| Parco della Murgia Materana | Hiking, views, nature | Ravines, caves, rock-hewn churches, panoramic Sassi vistas | Uneven terrain, requires comfortable shoes |
Why Visit Matera Now
Matera was designated a European Capital of Culture for 2019, which has brought increased attention to the city. While visitor numbers have risen, the infrastructure is still catching up, meaning you can experience its unique charm without the overwhelming crowds found in more established Italian tourist hubs. This makes now an ideal time to visit.
The city’s unique accommodation options, ranging from basic cave B&Bs to luxurious cave hotels, offer an unforgettable lodging experience. Staying within the Sassi allows you to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of this ancient city, waking up to views that feel centuries old. It’s an experience unlike any other you’ll find in Italy.
Matera is not directly accessible by high-speed train, so plan your transportation accordingly. While this limits some day-trippers, it also helps maintain a less crowded feel compared to cities with direct rail links. Consider renting a car or using bus connections from nearby cities.
Getting to and Around Matera
Reaching Matera typically involves a combination of transport. Many visitors opt to fly into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) or Naples International Airport (NAP). From Bari, a regional train or bus service can take you to Matera. Driving from Naples is also a viable option, taking approximately three to four hours, and allows for detours through the scenic Basilicata region.
Once in Matera, the best way to explore the Sassi is on foot. The city center is largely pedestrianized, and many streets are too narrow for vehicles. For areas outside the Sassi, local buses are available. Parking can be found in designated lots on the periphery of the Sassi, and it’s wise to map these out before your arrival, as navigation within the historic center can be challenging.
The spring and autumn months offer pleasant weather for exploring, with fewer crowds and comfortable temperatures. Summer can be quite hot, while winter can be cooler and wetter, though it offers a quieter, more introspective experience of the city.
From its awe-inspiring cave dwellings to its deeply flavourful cuisine, Matera offers a journey that engages all the senses. It’s a city that invites you to slow down, explore its ancient history, and savour the simple, authentic pleasures of southern Italian life.