I found myself utterly captivated by the Italian Riviera, specifically a stretch of coast known as Cinque Terre. It’s a place that hums with authentic Italian life, a far cry from the more tourist-heavy spots many people flock to. Imagine five villages, each painted in soft, gelato-like hues, clinging precariously to rugged cliffs that plunge into the Ligurian Sea. This is not a place for Maseratis or designer boutiques; instead, it’s an intentional car-free zone preserved by its UNESCO World Heritage status. It feels like stepping back in time, seeing grandmothers airing laundry from windows and children playing in narrow lanes, farmers carrying their harvests from ancient terraces, and the air filled with the scent of basil and lemons. This dramatic coastline, tucked between Genoa and Pisa, offers a truly special kind of Italian experience, one that’s deeply connected to the land and the sea.
Exploring the Five Lands
Monterosso al Mare
Our base for four nights was Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the five villages. It was an excellent choice because it’s the only one with a proper sandy beach, which Lily and Ethan absolutely loved after our long walks. Michael found it ideal for enjoying a quiet coffee by the sea before the day’s explorations. Monterosso has a lively esplanade lined with aperitivo bars and plenty of restaurants in its charming Old Town. Evenings here felt like being in a pint-sized Italian town, with a wonderful buzz but without the overwhelming crowds or prices of more famous destinations.
📍 Monterosso al Mare offers the only sandy beach in the Cinque Terre, making it a great base if you have children or simply love sunbathing by the sea.
Vernazza
Vernazza is often called one of the most beautiful villages, and I can see why. Its natural harbour is incredibly photogenic, with colourful buildings rising up behind it. We spent a delightful morning wandering through its narrow, winding streets, discovering tiny shops and soaking in the atmosphere. While there’s no sandy beach here, the rocky inlets are perfect for a refreshing dip on a warm afternoon. The seafood here is, as expected, absolutely superb. Anchovies are a local specialty, and I even tried them on a pizza—surprisingly delicious!
Corniglia
Corniglia is unique because it’s the only village not directly accessible from the sea; you have to climb quite a few steps to reach it from the train station. While it might be a bit more challenging to access, I found it to be an absolutely charming and less crowded option. The town is perched high on a cliff, offering stunning panoramic views. I was told Corniglia has some of the best trattorias, and after a long hike, a leisurely lunch here felt incredibly rewarding. The air was filled with the scent of fresh basil, which grows abundantly in this region.
The five villages of Cinque Terre are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
Manarola
Manarola is instantly recognizable with its stacked houses that seem to tumble down towards the sea. It’s undeniably a postcard-perfect view. Even with Michael and the kids, just strolling through its quiet lanes, pausing to admire the colourful buildings and the boats bobbing in the tiny harbour, was a joy. For an unforgettable experience, I’d highly recommend seeking out a spot like Nessun Dorma. Clinging to the cliffs above Manarola, this small bar offers some of the most breathtaking views across the Cinque Terre coastline as the sun begins to set.
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore, the southernmost village, has a dramatic feel with its tall, narrow houses painted in bright colours. There’s a lovely harbour here, and the steep main street is fun to explore. We spent a perfect afternoon here, enjoying freshly squeezed orange juice by the harbour before taking a leisurely walk along the coastal paths. The intricate circuit of mule trails connecting the villages, which are still in use today, is a testament to the ingenuity of the people who have lived here for centuries. For a simple yet delicious meal, I found a wonderful family-run restaurant set on stone steps in Monterosso’s Old Town serving amazing pasta dishes.
Getting Around Cinque Terre
Walking the Trails
Walking is, without a doubt, the most spectacular way to experience Cinque Terre. The signposted coastal footpaths wind between the villages, offering the most amazing views of the teal-blue sea below at every turn. Our morning walks were through gnarly vineyards carved into the hillsides, past fig trees, wildflowers, and cacti. It takes about one to two hours to walk between each village at a moderate pace, so it’s best to plan for at least a three or four-day trip to truly savour it. Even Lily, who can sometimes be a reluctant walker, was enthralled by the scenery and the occasional discovery of a hidden shrine or a tiny church along the way. We even stumbled upon a pop-up wine bar selling the delicious local Vermentino wine, which was a welcome treat.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Wear comfortable walking shoes; the terrain can be steep and uneven.
- Carry plenty of water, especially during warmer months.
- Check trail conditions before you set off, as some paths can close due to weather or maintenance.
- Allow ample time to stop and enjoy the views; don’t rush your walks.
Train Travel
The Cinque Terre Express train line connects all five villages efficiently. Trains are frequent and make it incredibly easy to hop between villages, especially when your legs need a break from walking or if you want to explore different areas in a single day. We found it very convenient for getting back to our base in Monterosso after our daily adventures. The trains run through hillside tunnels and skirt the coast, offering glimpses of the stunning landscape.
Ferry Services
From April 1 to November 1, a ferry service operates between the villages, offering a different perspective of the coastline from the water. It stops at all villages except Corniglia, which is perched high above the sea and not accessible by boat. Full-day tickets allow you to hop on and off as you please, which can be a lovely way to travel on a sunny day. We opted for the train for most of our inter-village travel, but I can imagine the ferry offering some absolutely stunning photo opportunities.
Culinary Delights
Local Produce
The seafood in Cinque Terre is exceptional, thanks to the rich marine life in the harbours. Anchovies are king here, and you can enjoy them in countless ways, from fried to simply served on a pizza. I particularly enjoyed trying the local specialities, like pesto pasta, which is famous in this region. The vineyards carved into the terraces above the towns produce grapes for Sciacchetrà, a wonderfully sweet white wine that’s a must-try.
Don’t miss trying the local basil ice cream; it sounds unusual, but it’s surprisingly delicious.
Dining Recommendations
For stunning views and great drinks, Nessun Dorma in Manarola is legendary. It’s a small bar perched on the cliffs, perfect for watching the sunset. In Corniglia, La Scuna Wine Bar offers a simple menu of fresh local food with a lovely sea-view terrace. Back in Monterosso, Gastronomia San Martino in the Old Town serves fantastic pasta without any fuss, though you might have to queue. For a more upscale experience, Ristorante Miky in Monterosso is a Michelin Guide-listed restaurant with lovely outdoor seating overlooking the beach.
What seafood is famous here
Anchovies are a signature dish in Cinque Terre, often prepared in various ways, including fried or on pizza. The local waters also provide a bounty of other fresh fish which are used in many regional dishes. You will also find delicious preparations of pesto, a specialty sauce hailing from the Liguria region.
Where can I get a great view
For an unparalleled panoramic view of the Cinque Terre coastline, seek out Nessun Dorma, a highly-regarded bar situated on the cliffs above Manarola. Many of the coastal walking paths themselves also offer breathtaking vistas of the sea and the villages below.
Is basil ice cream good
Basil ice cream is a unique local treat found in the Cinque Terre region. While it might sound unconventional, many visitors find its flavour surprisingly refreshing and pleasant, often described as subtly herbal with a hint of sweetness.
Planning Your Visit
Best Time to Go
While Cinque Terre is a popular destination year-round, visiting in early autumn is highly recommended if you can. The summer months can get very crowded, especially with day-trippers arriving on cruise ships. Autumn offers pleasant weather for hiking and a more relaxed atmosphere. We found that starting our village explorations early in the morning, around 8 am, allowed us to beat the largest crowds and enjoy a more peaceful experience before the main influx of visitors.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (spring or early autumn) to avoid peak summer crowds.
- Book accommodation well in advance, especially if travelling during popular periods.
- Purchase a Cinque Terre Card for easy access to walking trails and trains.
- Allow at least three to four days to fully experience the five villages and surrounding trails.
Getting There and Accommodation
The easiest way to reach Cinque Terre is by flying into Pisa or Genoa. Flights to Pisa are often more budget-friendly. From Pisa Airport, you can take a connecting train directly to any of the Cinque Terre villages. We based ourselves in Monterosso, finding a comfortable apartment through Airbnb that was spacious enough for Michael and the kids. There are also many lovely B&Bs and hotels available, with options ranging from budget-friendly guesthouses to more luxurious stays like La Torretta Lodge above Manarola, which boasts incredible views.
Getting Around
The Cinque Terre Pass, available from the tourist office in any village train station, is essential. For €8 a day, it grants you access to the main coastal walking trails (like the famous Blue Trail) and unlimited travel on the Cinque Terre Express train line, which connects all five villages. This pass made navigating between our chosen spots incredibly simple and cost-effective. Even with Lily and Ethan in tow, hopping on and off the train allowed us to manage our energy levels and explore at our own pace.
The Cinque Terre Card provides access to the main hiking trails and unlimited train travel between the villages.
The combination of walkable trails, efficient train services, and the option of ferries makes getting around Cinque Terre surprisingly easy, even with young children. Each village has its own unique character, and the ability to move freely between them allows you to experience the full spectrum of what this beautiful region has to offer. We found that by mixing walking with train rides, we could maximize our time and energy, ensuring everyone had a fantastic experience. It truly felt like a step back in time, a place where life moves at a gentler pace, and the connection to the earth and sea is ever-present.