Halfway up the stone staircase that connects Amalfi to the mountain village of Pontone, I stopped to catch my breath and wondered if I’d made a very expensive mistake.
The climb to Pontone is steep, hot, and long. The view from the terrace costs nothing but the effort.
– Emily Carter
Pontone is a tiny frazione of Ravello, perched high above the Amalfi Coast. It doesn’t have a port, a beach, or a major hotel. What it does have is a terrace restaurant that juts out over the valley of Furore, and getting there requires a 45-minute climb that starts at sea level and ends in the clouds. I went with my husband Michael and our two kids, Lily and Ethan, to find out if the payoff was worth the pain.
Yes, the climb is worth it. But you have to earn the view with your legs, and not everyone in your group will love the journey as much as the destination.
Adventurous couples
Hikers
Solo travelers
The Staircase That Separates the Coast from the Sky
The real Amalfi Coast isn’t found along the crowded for one of the most scenic spots on the Amalfi Coast.
We started from the main square in Amalfi, just past the cathedral. The path is clearly marked, but it doesn’t hold your hand. Within the first ten minutes, the street noise faded entirely, replaced by the sound of our own breathing and the occasional rustle of lizards in the dry stone walls. The stairs are uneven, worn smooth by centuries of feet, and some sections are steep enough to require using your hands.
Start before 9 a.m. The path is fully exposed to the sun for most of the ascent, and by 11 a.m. the heat becomes punishing. Bring at least one liter of water per person, and wear shoes with real grip — sandals are a bad idea here.
Michael carried our daypack, a leather backpack that I usually use for my laptop back home. It held our water bottles, a change of clothes for the kids, and a compact drone I’d brought specifically to capture this view. The leather took the sweat and dust in stride, and the padded laptop compartment kept the drone safe from every accidental bump against the stone walls.
Lily, our seven-year-old, treated the whole thing like an adventure race. She bounded ahead of us, counting steps in Italian. Ethan, who is four, needed a piggyback for the last twenty minutes. He fell asleep on Michael’s shoulders, head lolling, completely unbothered by the effort his father was putting in.
Hostaria di Bacco: The Terrace at the Top of the World
The restaurant appears suddenly, an unassuming stone building that opens onto a wooden terrace hanging over the edge of the valley.
We arrived sweaty and disheveled, and the staff didn’t blink. They brought us cold towels and a carafe of water before we even asked. I sat down, looked out at the coast stretching from Positano to Salerno, and felt every step of the climb become worth it in a single moment.
The view from the terrace is the kind that makes you want to cancel your afternoon plans. The valley of Furore cuts a deep green gash through the mountains, and the sea shimmers at the bottom of it all. I pulled out the compact drone I’d brought, a small folding model that fits in the palm of your hand, and sent it up for a few minutes. The footage it captured — the terrace from above, the valley opening up, the coast curving into the distance — is the best travel souvenir I brought home from that trip.
The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, but sunset is the sweet spot. The terrace faces west, and the light turns the entire valley gold for about twenty minutes before the sun drops behind the sea.
What to Eat on the Edge of the Valley
The menu at Hostaria di Bacco is rooted in the mountains, not the coast.
Chef Domenico serves dishes that reflect the Campania interior. The signature pasta is ferrazzuoli alla nanarella, a thick, hand-rolled pasta tossed with smoked swordfish, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and sultanas. It’s sweet, salty, and smoky all at once, and it pairs perfectly with a glass of Fiorduva, the local white wine that comes from vineyards grown on these very slopes.
We also ordered the grilled octopus, which arrived on a bed of Controne bean cream. Lily, who is usually suspicious of octopus, ate half of mine before I could stop her. Ethan stuck to the simple pasta with tomato sauce, which the kitchen prepared without us asking.
Michael ordered the baccalà — salt cod prepared with olives, capers, and cherry tomatoes — and spent the rest of the meal trying to figure out how to recreate it at home. The wine list is almost entirely local, and the house red is a deep, earthy Aglianico that costs under 20 euros a bottle.
Pontone vs. The Amalfi Coast’s Famous Dining Terraces
The Amalfi Coast is full of restaurants with views, but they are not all created equal. Here is how Pontone’s terrace compares to the heavy hitters.
| Restaurant | Location | View | Price for Two | The Catch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hostaria di Bacco | Pontone / Furore | Valley and coast from above | 70–90 euros | Requires a 45-minute climb |
| Da Gemma | Amalfi town center | Duomo and main square | 100–130 euros | Busy street below, less intimate |
| Rossellinis | Ravello (Palazzo Avino) | Panoramic sea and coast | 200+ euros | Michelin star, formal dress code |
| La Gavitella | Praiano | Sea-level cliffside | 80–110 euros | Requires a steep elevator ride down |
- Pontone wins for atmosphere and value — you get a genuine mountain experience without the formal price tag.
- Rossellinis is the choice if you want a special occasion dinner with white tablecloths and a tasting menu.
- Da Gemma is more convenient if you are staying in Amalfi town and want a terrace without a major hike.
Planning Your Climb to Pontone
Is the climb suitable for children?
Our seven-year-old handled it fine, but our four-year-old needed a piggyback for the last stretch. Older kids who enjoy hiking will love it. Bring snacks and make a game of counting steps.
If you have very young children or mobility concerns, consider visiting Pontone by car instead. The road from Ravello is winding but paved, and there is a small parking area near the church.
What is the biggest downside of Pontone?
The climb is genuinely hard, especially in summer heat. The path is uneven and exposed, and there are no restrooms or water fountains along the way. If you are not prepared for a physical challenge, the experience will feel more punishing than rewarding.
It is also very quiet. Pontone is not a place for nightlife or shopping. It is a place to sit, eat, and look at the view. If that sounds boring, you are better off in Positano.
When should I book the restaurant?
Reserve at least a week in advance for the terrace edge tables, especially during peak season. We booked two weeks ahead for a late June lunch and got the corner table with the best view of the valley.
Lunch is easier to book than dinner, and the light is actually better for photos in the early afternoon, when the sun illuminates the valley floor.
What should I bring?
Water, sunscreen, a hat, and a camera. The path is fully exposed, and the sun is intense even in spring. A small drone or action camera is worth the weight for the aerial shots of the terrace.
I brought my leather backpack to carry everything, and it handled the sweat and dust without any damage. The padded laptop compartment kept my drone safe from the bumps.
Is the restaurant expensive?
No, it is one of the most affordable terrace experiences on the coast. A meal for two with wine runs around 70 to 90 euros. The pasta dishes are all under 15 euros, and the house wine is 8 euros a liter.
Compare that to Rossellinis, where a tasting menu starts at 150 euros per person, and Pontone starts to look like a genuine bargain.
The View That Costs Nothing But the Climb
The best views on the Amalfi Coast are not the ones you buy with a credit card. They are the ones you pay for with your legs, your lungs, and your patience. Pontone gives you all of that, and then it gives you a plate of pasta, a glass of wine, and a terrace that feels like it belongs to you alone. If you want to see the Amalfi Coast the way it was meant to be seen, put on your hiking shoes and start climbing. For more family-friendly adventures along this coastline, read about our family trip beyond the theme parks.
Sources and further reading
Hostaria di Bacco. “Official Website.” 🔗
Belmond Hotel Caruso. “Ristorante Belvedere.” 🔗
Palazzo Avino. “Rossellinis Restaurant.” 🔗
Trattoria da Gemma. “Official Website.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Find Amalfi Coast Views Without Crowds in Praiano — A guide to the quieter side of the coast, with more terrace restaurants and fewer tourists.
Experience the Amalfi Coast’s Romantic Road — The scenic drive between the coast’s best viewpoints, including stops in Ravello and Furore.
Amalfi Coast: Terraced Lemons, Cobalt Sea, and Cliff Roads — A deeper look at the landscapes that make this coast one of the most beautiful in the world.