Genoa’s Strade Nuove and the Palazzi dei Rolli system form one of Italy’s most fascinating UNESCO sites — a network of noble palaces built between the 16th and 17th centuries that once hosted ambassadors and princes. The city was selected by Lonely Planet as the only Italian destination in its Best in Travel 2025 list, a recognition that signals a shift in traveller attention toward this Ligurian capital. This guide covers the historic centre, the Rolli palaces, local food, and the practical realities of visiting a city that rewards patience and curiosity.
Genoa has been selected by Lonely Planet as one of the must-see destinations in the Best in Travel 2025 list — the only Italian city to receive this recognition.
The historic centre, with its caruggi (narrow alleyways), is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cores — but it’s also a working neighbourhood where scooters zip past and laundry hangs overhead. The city’s wealth came from the sea, and that maritime identity still shapes everything from the Palazzo San Giorgio (former seat of the Bank of San Giorgio and Marco Polo’s prison) to the daily catch at the port.
Genoa isn’t a city you tick off in a day. The caruggi are disorienting, the hills are steep, and some of the best palaces are only open during specific windows. But if you give it two full days and lean into the chaos, you’ll find a place that feels lived-in rather than polished for tourists. The tradeoff is worth it.
Genoa’s Historic Centre and the Rolli Palaces
History enthusiasts
Solo travellers
Food-focused visitors
Genoa’s historic centre is a labyrinth of narrow alleys called caruggi, connecting piazzas, churches, and hidden courtyards. Unlike Florence or Rome, where monumental squares dominate, Genoa’s medieval core feels intimate and slightly chaotic — scooters weave through pedestrian-only lanes, and the scent of focaccia drifts from bakeries tucked into ground-floor workshops. The city’s wealth was built on maritime trade, and that history is etched into the architecture.
The Palazzi dei Rolli system is unique in European urban history. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, Genoa’s most powerful families built sumptuous palaces along Via Garibaldi, Via Balbi, and Via del Campo. These palaces were listed in official registers (the “Rolli”) and required to host state visits. Today, several are open to the public, including Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco, which house art collections with works by Van Dyck and Rubens. The Royal Palace on Via Balbi amazes with its Baroque frescoes and original furnishings.
Period when Genoa’s Rolli palaces were built by powerful families for hosting state visits.
viaggiaitalia.com
One limitation: not all palaces are open year-round. During summer, Rolli Days offers free access to private palaces normally closed to the public — but outside that window, you’re limited to the main museum circuit. The Strada Nuova Museums (Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco, and Palazzo Doria Tursi) are the most reliable option, with a single ticket covering all three.
Via Garibaldi was described by Rubens as “the most beautiful street in Europe.” Walk it early in the morning before the crowds arrive — the light hits the palace facades differently before 9 a.m.
Heading into Via del Campo, immortalised in Fabrizio De André’s song, you’ll find artisan workshops and historic palaces like Palazzo Spinola. This area feels less curated than Via Garibaldi — some buildings show their age, and the street-level shops sell practical goods rather than souvenirs. It’s a reminder that Genoa’s historic centre is still a living neighbourhood, not a museum set piece.
When to Visit and How to Get Around
Timing matters more in Genoa than in many Italian cities — the climate, the Rolli Days schedule, and the steep terrain all affect how you experience it.
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Key events | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | Mild, 15–22°C | Moderate | Euroflora (every 3 years) | Walking tours, outdoor dining |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | Warm, 25–30°C | High | Rolli Days, Boat Show | Palace visits, coastal excursions |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Mild, 12–20°C | Low–moderate | Local food festivals | Museum visits, hiking |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Cool, 5–12°C | Low | Christmas markets | Budget travel, indoor attractions |
Spring and autumn are the sweet spots. Summer brings the Rolli Days and the Genoa International Boat Show, which attracts thousands of visitors and showcases maritime industries — but the caruggi can feel crowded, and the humidity near the port is noticeable. Winter is quieter and cheaper, though some outdoor attractions close earlier.
Getting to Genoa
Genoa is easily reachable by train, car, or plane. The Genova Piazza Principe station connects to Milan (1.5 hours), Turin (1.5 hours), and the Cinque Terre (1–2 hours). If driving, be aware of the ZTL (limited traffic zone) in the historic centre — it’s strictly enforced, and fines arrive by mail months later. The Genoa Museum Card offers discounted admission to major museums and use of public transportation, which is worth it if you plan to visit multiple sites.
The historic centre’s steep climbs and uneven stone streets are tough on wheeled luggage and anyone with mobility concerns. Comfortable shoes aren’t optional — they’re essential. The caruggi also lack clear signage, so a good offline map app is a practical investment.
Getting around the city
The historic centre is best explored on foot, but the hills demand a strategy. The Spianata Castelletto viewpoint is reachable by the historic funicular or through panoramic pedestrian paths — the funicular is worth riding even if you don’t need the lift. Public buses cover the wider city, and taxis are available but can be slow in traffic. For families, the official city guide includes a section on visiting with kids, which notes stroller-friendly routes and quieter parks.
On the Ground: Food, Customs, and Practical Realities
Genoese cuisine is simple and direct — born from the meeting of sea, land, and popular ingenuity, as the city’s official guide puts it.
What to eat and where
Pesto alla Genovese is the obvious starting point, but the local food scene goes deeper. Focaccia (soft, oily, salted) is sold by weight in bakeries throughout the historic centre — grab a piece for breakfast or a midday snack. Bluefish, stuffed vegetables, and fresh seafood dominate restaurant menus near the port. The Mercato Orientale (Eastern Market) is a covered market where locals shop for produce, cheese, and cured meats — it’s also a good spot for a quick, cheap lunch.
One thing that surprised me: Genoese dining hours lean later than in northern Italy. Restaurants fill up around 8:30 p.m., and many close between lunch and dinner (the classic chiusura). Plan your meals accordingly, especially if you’re travelling with kids who need to eat earlier.
Church etiquette and local customs
The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, with its black-and-white striped facade, houses the legendary Sacred Basin and the treasure of San Lorenzo — one of the world’s most precious collections of sacred art. Dress codes apply: shoulders and knees covered, no hats. The same rule applies at the Church of Gesù (with frescoes by Rubens) and San Matteo (with its Gothic cloister of the Doria family). These churches are active places of worship, not just tourist sites — visitors are expected to maintain quiet and avoid disrupting services.
- Pack comfortable walking shoes and a light jacket — the caruggi are shaded and cool even in summer.
- Check the Rolli Days schedule before booking; if you’re visiting outside summer, focus on the Strada Nuova Museums circuit.
- Download an offline map app — signage in the historic centre is inconsistent, and phone reception can be patchy in the narrow alleys.
Common Questions About Visiting Genoa
Is Genoa worth visiting compared to Cinque Terre?
Yes, but for different reasons. Cinque Terre is about coastal scenery and hiking; Genoa offers a deep historic centre, world-class museums, and a working port city atmosphere. If you have time, combine both — they’re connected by train in about an hour.
How many days do I need in Genoa?
Two full days is the sweet spot. One day for the historic centre, the Rolli palaces, and the cathedral; another for the Aquarium of Genoa (one of the largest in Europe), the port area, and a trip up to Spianata Castelletto for the view. A third day allows for a side trip to Boccadasse or the nearby Riviera.
Is Genoa safe for solo travellers?
Generally yes. The historic centre is busy during the day and well-lit in the main areas, but the caruggi can feel deserted at night. Stick to Via Garibaldi, Via Balbi, and the main piazzas after dark. Pickpocketing is a concern in crowded areas, so keep valuables secured.
What’s the biggest downside of visiting Genoa?
The hills. The historic centre is built on a slope, and the caruggi involve constant stair climbs and uneven pavement. If you have mobility issues or are travelling with very young children, plan routes carefully and use the funicular or buses to avoid the steepest sections.
When are the Rolli Days?
Rolli Days typically take place in May and October, with a special summer edition. During these weekends, private palaces normally closed to the public open for free. Check the official city tourism site for exact dates, which are announced a few months in advance.
Genoa doesn’t present itself easily — the caruggi hide its best views, the palaces keep irregular hours, and the hills test your legs. But that resistance is part of what makes it rewarding. Walk down Via Garibaldi early in the morning, when the light hits the palace facades and the street is empty, and you’ll understand why Rubens called it the most beautiful street in Europe. For more on how to structure your time, read about Boccadasse, pastries, pesto, and sea views — a quieter side of the city that balances the historic centre’s intensity.
Sources and further reading
Discover Genoa: New Tourist Guides. Visit Genoa, 2025.
Discovering Genoa: A Jewel of the Italian Riviera. Invisiverse, 2025.
Genoa, the Superb: Art and History in the Heart of Liguria. Viaggia Italia, 2025.