Matera’s Sassi — two districts of cave dwellings carved into a limestone ravine — have been occupied since at least 7000 BCE, making this city in Basilicata one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. By the 1950s, the same caves that once housed sophisticated water management systems had become a symbol of poverty, with roughly 15,000 residents forcibly relocated under a 1952 law that declared the area uninhabitable. Today, those same cave dwellings house boutique hotels, restaurants, and galleries, and Matera draws visitors who want to see how a city can reinvent itself without erasing its past. This guide covers the two Sassi districts, the best cave hotels, the rock churches, and the practical realities of visiting a city built into a gorge — including the steep stairs, the summer heat, and the ticketing quirks that catch first-timers off guard.
By the mid-20th century, the Sassi were a landscape of intolerable poverty — families sharing cave dwellings with their animals, children ravaged by malaria.
Matera is believed to be the third oldest city in the world, after Aleppo in Syria and Jericho in Palestine’s West Bank. That kind of history doesn’t come with a flat, easy-to-walk layout. The Sassi are steep, the stairs are uneven, and the summer sun in the Mezzogiorno is relentless. But the payoff — frescoes from the 13th century, cave hotels with Jacuzzis carved into the rock, and a city that feels more like a geological formation than a modern urban centre — is unlike anywhere else in Italy.
Matera is genuinely one of the most striking places I’ve visited in Italy, but it’s not a casual stop. The terrain is demanding — you’ll climb hundreds of stone steps daily — and the summer heat in the ravine can be intense. If you’re travelling with kids or anyone with mobility concerns, you need to plan around the steep descents and limited elevator access. That said, for travellers who can handle the physical side, Matera offers a depth of history and a concentration of cave hotels and rock churches that you simply won’t find anywhere else.
Orienting Yourself in the Sassi: Caveoso vs. Barisano
History enthusiasts
Luxury cave hotel seekers
Photographers
The Sassi di Matera are divided into two ancient districts — Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano — with the medieval Civita (old town) perched on the spur between them. Sasso Caveoso, on the southern side of the Gravina ravine, is the more dramatic of the two: its cave dwellings are carved directly into the tufa rock face, and the views across the gorge to the Murgia plateau are the ones you see on postcards. Sasso Barisano, on the northern side, is more built-up, with restored cave houses converted into hotels, restaurants, and shops. The two districts are connected by a network of stairways and narrow lanes, and you’ll likely cross between them several times in a single day.
One honest limitation: the terrain is relentless. The Sassi are built on a steep slope, and every walk involves significant elevation change. There are public elevators in a few spots — near the Piazza Vittorio Veneto and at the end of Via Madonna delle Virtù — but they don’t cover the entire district. If you’re staying in a cave hotel in Sasso Caveoso, expect to carry your luggage down a long flight of stone steps. Michael and I learned this the hard way on our first evening, hauling suitcases over cobblestones in the dark. Pack light, and consider a backpack instead of a rolling suitcase.
cave dwellings in the Sassi, plus 150 rock-hewn churches and an infrastructure of cisterns and channels that evolved over nine millennia.
italylatitudes.com
Matera received UNESCO World Heritage status in 1993 and served as a European Capital of Culture in 2019, which spurred a wave of restoration and hotel development. The result is a city that balances its raw, ancient character with modern amenities — but the balance isn’t always perfect. Some cave hotels have excellent climate control and soundproofing; others feel damp and echoey. Read recent reviews carefully before booking, especially for rooms deep inside the rock.
Where to Stay and What to See in the Cave City
Matera’s accommodation is an experience in itself, but the real draw is what lies beyond the hotel door — the rock churches, the cave houses, and the craftspeople keeping ancient traditions alive.
Staying in a Cave: Vetera Matera and Moyseion
The five-star Vetera Matera opened in April 2025 and was immediately welcomed into Relais & Châteaux. Its 23 rooms occupy vertically stacked limestone cave houses in one of the Sassi districts, with some rooms featuring large Jacuzzis in their innermost sanctums. The restoration took eight years, and the attention to detail shows — air-conditioning consoles, dehumidifiers that run continuously, warm lighting that compensates for the lack of natural light, and oversize showers with rain heads. The hotel is a sister property to the Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento, and the executive chef, Eduardo Estatico, combines ideas from his Neapolitan childhood with ingredients from Basilicata and Puglia.
For something completely different, Moyseion is a hotel-museum that opened fully in summer 2025, dreamed up by owner Antonio Panetta, an artist and lawyer turned hotelier. Eight of its 16 stone dwellings are inspired by ancient Greece — high wooden beds, natural fabrics, cabinets with items depicting daily life of the era — while other rooms reflect pre-Greek periods. The basement houses the Sanctuary of Waters, a multilevel spa dedicated to the goddess Demeter, with pools, statues, and stone basins based on Hellenistic thermal complexes. The in-house team includes archaeologists, classicists, musicians, and performers who lead daily rituals and evening symposiums. Breakfast — akratisma — is curated by food anthropologists and historians, with dishes like melitoutta (yoghurt, honey, and cinnamon) and plakous (filo pastry with ricotta, figs, and walnuts).
Rock Churches and Cave Houses
The rock churches of Matera are among its most compelling attractions. The Santa Maria de Idris and the adjoining San Giovanni in Monterrone sit on a rocky spur with panoramic views over the ravine. Their frescoes date from the 13th century, and the interiors are bare except for the painted walls — no pews, no altars, just the rock and the art. The preserved cave house in Vico Solitario shows how life would have been when it was last inhabited in 1956, with mules and chickens living alongside the family, shelves and niches carved into the walls. It’s a sobering contrast to the luxury cave hotels a few hundred metres away.
The Santa Maria de Idris church is small and can feel crowded by mid-morning. Go at 9 a.m. when it opens — the light hits the frescoes at an angle that makes the colours pop, and you’ll have the space to yourself for at least 20 minutes.
Murgia Park and the Suspension Footbridge
Cross the suspension footbridge over the Gravina River to the other side of the gorge, and you’ll reach Murgia Park — a vast, wild rocky plateau pocked with hundreds of rupestrian churches (churches carved into rocks or cave walls). The walk from the Sassi to the park takes about 20 minutes, and the view back toward Matera from the plateau is the classic panorama you see in photographs. The park is free to enter, and the trails are well-marked, but bring water and wear sturdy shoes — there’s no shade, and the limestone can be slippery after rain.
Practical Planning: Timing, Access, and Local Friction
Matera’s geography and climate create specific planning challenges that don’t apply to flatter, more temperate Italian cities. Here’s what you need to know before you go.
| Factor | Spring (Mar–May) | Summer (Jun–Aug) | Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Winter (Dec–Feb) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 15–22°C | 28–35°C | 12–24°C | 5–12°C |
| Crowds | Moderate | High | Low to moderate | Low |
| Cave hotel rates | €200–350/night | €300–500/night | €180–300/night | €120–200/night |
| Key consideration | Ideal for walking | Heat in the ravine is intense | Mild, fewer tourists | Some cave hotels feel damp |
Getting There and Getting Around
Matera is in Basilicata, roughly a 90-minute drive from Bari, which has the nearest major airport and train station. Trenitalia runs regional trains from Bari Centrale to Matera Centrale, with a journey time of about 1 hour 20 minutes. Once you arrive, the train station is at the top of the city, on the plateau above the Sassi. From there, you can walk down into the historic centre — but again, it’s all downhill on the way in and uphill on the way out. Taxis are available at the station, and some hotels offer a pick-up service for guests with heavy luggage.
Driving in Matera is complicated by the ZTL (limited traffic zone) that covers most of the Sassi. If you’re arriving by car, park in one of the lots on the plateau — Parcheggio Via Lucana and Parcheggio Pasquale Vena are both reliable — and walk or take a taxi to your accommodation. Fines for entering the ZTL without authorisation are issued automatically and can be steep.
The ZTL in Matera is strictly enforced, and the cameras are positioned at several entry points to the Sassi. Even if you see other cars driving through, don’t assume it’s allowed. Park on the plateau and walk down — it’s the only way to avoid a fine.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the sweet spots. Temperatures are mild enough for comfortable walking, and the crowds are manageable. Summer in Matera is intense — the limestone absorbs heat all day and radiates it back at night, and the narrow lanes of the Sassi trap the warmth. If you visit in July or August, plan your sightseeing for early morning and late evening, and find air-conditioned spaces (or a cave hotel with good climate control) during the afternoon. Winter is quiet and atmospheric, but some cave hotels can feel damp, and the shorter daylight hours limit your time for exploring the rock churches and Murgia Park.
On the Ground: Food, Crafts, and Local Customs
Matera’s food culture and artisanal traditions are deeply tied to its history of resourcefulness and communal living. Here’s what to look for — and what to avoid.
Bread, Bread Stamps, and the Communal Oven Tradition
Matera’s bread is distinctively tall and made from durum wheat, and the tradition of marking loaves with carved wooden stamps dates from the time of shared ovens, when each baker had to imprint her own initials before baking. You can learn about this tradition at Panificio Perrone Il Forno di Gennaro, where a hands-on lesson in making the loaves is offered through some hotel experience programs. The bread stamps themselves are still carved by local artisans, and you can visit a woodcarver’s cave atelier to see the process — and buy a stamp as a souvenir. The stamps are functional, not just decorative: use one to mark your own bread at home, and you’re continuing a tradition that goes back centuries.
Dining with Locals and the Aperitivo Culture
One of the most memorable experiences in Matera is the dine-with-locals format, where you’re welcomed into a private home for a meal. The Guardian article mentions Marisa and Fernando, who host guests in their home for an evening of home-cooked Basilicata cuisine. These meals are typically arranged through hotels or local tour operators, and they offer a genuine glimpse into daily life in the city — something that can be hard to access in a place where most of the historic centre is given over to tourism. For a more casual option, the bars in Sasso Barisano serve aperitivo in the early evening, with small plates of local cheeses, cured meats, and olives. The tradition is similar to what you’d find in Milan, but the setting — a cave bar carved into the rock — is uniquely Matera.
- Book a cave hotel with good climate control and read recent reviews about dampness — not all cave rooms are created equal.
- Pack a lightweight backpack for travel instead of a rolling suitcase; the stairs and cobblestones in the Sassi make wheels nearly useless.
- Visit the rock churches early in the morning to avoid crowds and catch the best light on the frescoes.
Church Etiquette and Dress Codes
The rock churches of Matera — Santa Maria de Idris, San Giovanni in Monterrone, and the rupestrian churches in Murgia Park — are active religious sites, and the standard Italian church dress code applies: cover your shoulders and knees. This is especially important in summer, when the temptation to wear shorts and tank tops is strong. A lightweight scarf or shawl that you can wrap around your shoulders is a practical solution. The churches are also cool inside compared to the outdoor temperature, so having a layer is useful for more than just modesty.
Common Questions About Visiting Matera’s Sassi
Is Matera worth visiting if I only have one day?
Yes, but you’ll need to prioritise. Focus on one Sassi district — Sasso Caveoso for the dramatic views and rock churches — and skip Murgia Park unless you’re willing to sacrifice time in the historic centre. The cave hotels are worth seeing even if you’re not staying overnight; many have public bars or restaurants.
Are the cave hotels in Matera damp or cold?
Some are, especially in winter. The caves maintain a constant temperature of around 15°C year-round, which feels cool in summer but can be chilly in December and January. High-end properties like Vetera Matera have dehumidifiers and climate control, but budget cave rooms may feel musty. Check recent reviews for mentions of dampness before booking.
Can I visit the Sassi with a stroller or wheelchair?
With significant difficulty. The Sassi are built on a steep slope with uneven stone steps, narrow lanes, and limited elevator access. Some restaurants and hotels have steps at the entrance. If mobility is a concern, stay on the plateau and visit only the upper parts of Sasso Barisano, which are more accessible than Sasso Caveoso.
What’s the difference between Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano?
Sasso Caveoso is the more dramatic, photogenic district, with cave dwellings carved directly into the cliff face and views across the ravine. Sasso Barisano is more built-up, with more restaurants, shops, and hotels. Most visitors spend time in both, but if you have to choose one, Caveoso offers the more memorable experience.
How long does it take to walk from the train station to the Sassi?
About 15–20 minutes downhill from Matera Centrale to the edge of Sasso Barisano. The walk back uphill is more strenuous — allow 25–30 minutes, or take a taxi for around €10. If you have luggage, definitely take a taxi or arrange a hotel pick-up.
Matera doesn’t let you forget that you’re walking through nine millennia of human habitation — the rock walls, the cisterns, the frescoes, the bread stamps, all of it layered into a single, steep ravine. It’s not an easy city, and it shouldn’t be. The effort of climbing those stairs, of navigating the ZTL, of choosing between a cave hotel and a modern room — that effort is part of what makes the place stick with you. For a deeper look at how other Italian destinations balance history with modern travel, read about why Procida offers a quieter alternative to the Amalfi Coast.
Sources and further reading
Matera’s Newest Luxury Cave Hotel Is A Five-Star Italian Stunner. Forbes, 2025.
History comes alive at a new hotel-museum in the ancient Italian city of Matera. The Guardian, 2025.
Matera Sassi: The Cave City’s Luxury Transformation. Italy Latitudes, 2025.