Ravenna, a city in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, feels like stepping into a rich, historical mosaic. Its streets are lined with a blend of ancient churches and modern shops, offering a unique contrast. Imagine wandering through alleys filled with the aroma of gelato and the sight of souvenir stores, only to turn a corner and find yourself face-to-face with centuries-old ochre facades. The true magic, however, is found within these historic walls and domes, where millions of sparkling mosaic tiles tell stories spanning from the Roman Empire to the Byzantine era. It’s a place where history isn’t just observed; it’s felt in the shimmering surfaces around you. This city was once the capital of the Roman Empire in the early fifth century, later ruled by the Goths, and then part of Byzantine Italy until the eighth century. These rulers had a deep appreciation for mosaic art, and their passion has left an incredible legacy, with eight UNESCO World Heritage sites preserved in its pedestrian-friendly center.
Discovering Byzantine Brilliance
My exploration started on foot, taking in the charming alleyways that characterize Ravenna. It’s easy to get lost, but every turn reveals something beautiful, from tiny artisan shops to grand historical landmarks.
Tomb of a Literary Giant
Our first stop was a surprisingly modest chapel on Via Alighieri Dante, 9, dedicated to Dante Alighieri. It’s hard to believe that the tomb of such an influential Italian poet, who finished his epic “The Divine Comedy” in Ravenna during his exile, resides here. The story of his bones being hidden by monks to prevent their transfer to Florence adds a layer of intrigue to this quiet spot. Even today, Florence sends olive oil to burn in the lamp above his tomb, a testament to his enduring legacy and the deep connection Ravenna holds to his life’s work.
Baptismal Artistry
Just a few streets away, in Piazza Duomo, is the fifth-century Neonian Baptistery. While the marble and stucco work are impressive, the real masterpiece is within the domed ceiling. Here, countless gold tiles form a stunning depiction of Christ’s baptism, encircled by the 12 Apostles rendered in vibrant yellow against a deep indigo background. It’s an awe-inspiring sight that truly showcases the craftsmanship of the era. Purchasing a combination ticket is a smart move, as it grants access to several historical sites, including this baptistery, making the visit more comprehensive and cost-effective.
Processions in Mosaics
A short walk led me to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, its gabled facade a familiar sight. Inside, the mosaics are breathtaking. One wall features a vibrant procession of virgins and the three Magi, while the opposite side displays what is believed to be the oldest existing mosaic depiction of the New Testament, showing a procession of martyrs. The detail and color in these ancient artworks are astounding, offering a vivid glimpse into historical and religious narratives.
A Taste of Romagna
After soaking in the history and art, it was time to refuel with some local flavors. Ravenna’s culinary scene is as rich as its mosaic heritage.
Regional Flatbread Delight
It’s essential to try the piadina, the local specialty, especially when visiting this region. This tortilla-like flatbread is incredibly versatile. The classic version I enjoyed was filled with peppery arugula, creamy squacquerone cheese, and savory prosciutto, then pan-roasted to a perfect crisp. For a quick and delicious meal on the go, the no-frills spot La Piadina del Melarancio in the city center is the perfect place to grab one.
Byzantine Masterpieces and Museum Treasures
The afternoon was dedicated to further exploration of Ravenna’s artistic treasures, combining historical sites with its rich museum collections.
Archaeological Discoveries
A five-minute walk took me to the National Museum, an impressive collection housed in a former monastery. The museum displays an array of fascinating artifacts, including intricate mosaic floors, archaeological fragments from Roman and Byzantine monuments, ancient weapons, and delicate ivories. The star attractions for me were the remarkable 14th-century frescoes that have been carefully retrieved from various churches around Ravenna, bringing previously hidden artworks back to light.
An Architectural Marvel
Adjacent to the museum is the Basilica of San Vitale, a true masterpiece of Byzantine architecture. Its distinctive octagonal shape and exposed brick exterior are striking, while the alabaster windows flood the interior with light, illuminating the countless mosaic tiles. The apse vault is particularly captivating, featuring a mosaic of Christ’s redemption, flanked by angels, with the four rivers of Paradise flowing beneath his feet. Seeing these mosaics, shimmering with every imaginable color, felt like witnessing pure artistry suspended in time.
An Evening of Culinary Excellence
As evening approached, I sought out a dining experience that would complement the day’s sensory feast. Ravenna offers exceptional culinary options, from casual bites to refined dining.
Michelin-Starred Seafood
For a special meal, Osteria L’Acciuga, a Michelin-starred restaurant, provided an impeccable selection of wines and seafood. Their specialties, like pickled anchovies served with spaghetti or as a fresh tartare, were exquisite. Other highlights included tender octopus roasted with artichokes and olives, succulent Adriatic prawns, and a perfectly cooked sea bass. It was a memorable dining experience that showcased the quality of local ingredients and culinary expertise.
Day Two Exploring Beyond the Center
The second day in Ravenna offered a chance to venture a bit further afield, using a bicycle to cover more ground and discover mosaic art in a different setting.
Cycling Through Art
Renting a bicycle from Cooperativa San Vitale at Piazza Farini, right by the train station, was the perfect way to start the day. It allowed for a more relaxed pace and the freedom to explore the city’s outskirts. Riding alongside ancient churches and through tree-lined streets made the journey itself an experience.
Peace in Mosaics
A 15-minute ride outside the city center brought me to Parco della Pace (Peace Park). This open-air museum features about a dozen mosaic sculptures by local and international artists, each conveying a message of peace and friendship. The striking “Wings of Peace,” a large mosaic sculpture of a dove’s wing, and a wall mural depicting the tree of life, were particularly moving. It’s a serene and thought-provoking place, a beautiful blend of art and nature.
Symbolic Stone Spirals
Continuing my cycling exploration, I headed to the Piazza Della Resistenza to see the mosaic on the Ardea Purpurea fountain. This work, designed by master sculptor Marco Bravura, features two large monoliths adorned with gold, purple, and red tiles spiraling upwards like flames. Named after the phoenix, it’s a powerful symbol of rebirth and resilience. The interplay of light and color on the tiles makes it a truly captivating sight.
Culinary Crafts and Contemporary Art
The afternoon combined culinary pursuits with a look at how Ravenna’s mosaic heritage is being reinterpreted by contemporary artists.
Pasta Perfection
For lunch, I visited restaurant Passatelli 1962 on Via Ponte Marino. Their signature dish, passatelli, is a unique pasta made from breadcrumbs, eggs, and Parmesan, cooked in a rich chicken broth. They even offer a delicious vegan version. The opportunity to sign up for a pasta-making lesson sounded like a fun way to delve deeper into the local cuisine, a perfect activity for a family visit.
Modern Mosaic Expressions
The MAR, Ravenna’s art museum, is housed in a former 16th-century monastery, offering a contemporary perspective on the city’s mosaic tradition. The ground floor showcases modern interpretations, from tranquil “Enchanted Mountains” to abstract pieces. It’s fascinating to see how current artists are using mosaics to connect with and highlight Ravenna’s rich heritage. If you have extra time, visiting local artist Barbara Liverani or Koko Mosaico offers a chance to see chic, contemporary mosaic creations, from mirror frames to delicate jewelry, blending ancient patterns with modern design sensibilities.
Ravenna truly is a city that stays with you, its glittering mosaics a constant reminder of the artistry and history that have shaped it. It’s a place where every corner turned offers a new perspective, a fresh detail, or a moment of quiet reflection amidst the echoes of empires and the enduring beauty of tile.