As I stepped out of the car and took my first breath of Puglian air, I knew I was somewhere truly special. The scent of sun-baked earth mixed with wild herbs filled the air, and the light felt different here—softer, warmer. My destination was Vista Ostuni, a new hotel nestled in the heart of Italy’s Valle d’Itria, and it promised to be a luxurious gateway to this captivating region. Even before arriving, I’d heard whispers about Puglia being an “up-and-coming destination,” and seeing Ostuni, the so-called White City, for the first time, I understood why. Its whitewashed buildings gleamed under the Mediterranean sun, creating a dazzling contrast against the deep blue sky. Vista Ostuni, in particular, stood out—a beautiful limestone structure that felt more like a historic palazzo than the former tobacco-sorting factory it once was. This place felt like it had truly arrived.
Arriving at Vista Ostuni
The drive to Ostuni was a journey through rolling hills dotted with ancient olive trees, their silvery leaves shimmering in the breeze. I remembered Michael pointing out a particularly gnarled one, saying it looked like it had stories to tell. It’s this kind of timeless beauty that draws me back to Italy again and again. Arriving at Vista Ostuni, I was met with a landscape that lived up to its name. The hotel offers magnificent views over endless fields of olive trees stretching out towards the Adriatic Sea. It’s the kind of scenery that makes you want to stop and just soak it all in. The architecture of the resort is deeply rooted in its history, with a colonnaded lobby that evokes the feeling of a cloister. It’s adorned with carob trees and vibrant Mediterranean flora, creating a tranquil, enclosed courtyard. Ascending to the rooftop, I found myself in an oasis of calm, with a deep-green infinity pool that seemed to blend into the sea itself. This is the perfect spot to watch the golden hour paint the sky. Even with Lily and Ethan in tow, looking for mischief, the calm atmosphere here encourages a sense of peace.
Exploring Our Rooms
The rooms at Vista Ostuni are spread across three floors, each featuring soaring, ecclesiastical cross-vault ceilings that give a sense of spaciousness and grandeur. I found our room to be both chic and comfortable, with a varying but always superb vista. Some rooms offer unique views of the neighboring church, a reminder of the building’s past connection, while many more frame the mesmerizing expanse of the sea. The interior design strikes a lovely balance between vintage seaside charm and modern elegance. Details like cannage furniture, hanging textiles, and unique, squiggled portraits add character. Some of the rooms even feature a mezzanine style, adding an interesting architectural element. Throughout the nooks and crannies, you’ll find beautiful ceramic plates and vases, custom creations from nearby Grottaglie.
The bathrooms here are something else entirely. I’ve often discussed with Michael how important a well-appointed bathroom is, and Vista Ostuni certainly delivers. Much like other properties by Lario Hotels, the bathrooms are improbably chic, outfitted in striking slabs of marble. The colors range from deep clarets to serene undersea greens, or even a blue-gray-gold multicolor that resembles astrophotography. It feels like a private spa within our suite.
Culinary Delights
The culinary program at Vista Ostuni is overseen by a renowned Friuli-born chef, whose impressive résumé includes stints at Michelin-starred restaurants. Here, the focus is on fine dining that highlights local Puglian products. For a more casual experience, Bianca Bistrot offers rustic plates by the poolside, a perfect spot to refuel after a day of exploring. For aperitivo, the rooftop infinity bar is a must-visit, offering al fresco drinks with stunning views. Alternatively, the Chiostro Bar, located off the lobby, is anchored by a colossal, bottle-lined back bar arch. It’s described as a modern interpretation of a classic Italian bar. If you’re looking for a signature drink, I highly recommend trying their gin and tonic, infused with crunchy green pepperoncinis – a unique and refreshing twist.
Things to Do
This region is famous for its olive oil, so it’s no surprise that olive oil tastings are offered on-site. I envision doing one of these tastings with Michael, learning about the local varietals. For those who enjoy hands-on experiences, there are also cocktail-making and cooking classes available, which would be a fun activity for the whole family if Lily wasn’t too young for some workshops.
Venturing off-site, the hotel can arrange excursions using e-bikes or the soon-to-arrive Ape Calessinos, which are charming three-wheeled open-air vehicles perfect for short local drop-offs. Exploring the Valle d’Itria is a highlight, with a visit to Alberobello, famous for its unique conical trulli houses, being a must. I’ve seen pictures of these trulli and they look like something out of a fairytale. The hotel’s staff, who are predominantly from Puglia, are invaluable guides to the area’s hidden gems. Beyond that, there are opportunities for horse riding, zipping around in a vintage Alfa Romeo Giulietta, or learning a new skill with workshops focusing on pottery, cheese making, or the creation of luminarie – those beautiful decorative lights seen in southern Italian towns during festivals.
Wellness and Relaxation
During my visit, the spa facilities were not yet fully operational, but I understand guests can anticipate a cave-like space designed for ultimate relaxation. It’s lined with violet mosaic tiles and features a private indoor spa pool, three treatment rooms, and a range of treatments using all-natural products. I can imagine this being a serene escape after a day of traveling with the children, a moment of quiet for myself while Michael takes the kids to the pool.
Family-Friendly and Sustainable Stays
Vista Ostuni offers two connecting rooms, which can accommodate a total of four guests, making them well-suited for families. While there aren’t specific programs for very young children, the team is happy to tailor available experiences to suit younger visitors. The hotel is also committed to accessibility, with two rooms designed for guests with disabilities. On the sustainability front, Lario Hotels has been a Benefit Corporation since 2021, producing detailed reports on their environmental and social impact. Vista Ostuni continues these efforts with features like automatic lighting systems, water-efficient taps, energy-efficient pool heating, and rainwater collection for landscaping. The property is also working towards LEED certification, showcasing a strong commitment to eco-friendly practices.
It’s inspiring to see hotels embracing these values, especially when traveling with children. Knowing that the hotel is mindful of its impact makes the experience all the more enjoyable. Sometimes, when we’re in a new place, I worry about our footprint, so seeing these initiatives is reassuring.
Navigating the Area
The hotel’s location is ideal, just a short 10-minute walk from the whitewashed hilltop old town of Ostuni, which is truly one of Puglia’s most picturesque spots. It’s close enough to easily explore the town’s charming streets and enjoy its vibrant atmosphere, yet far enough away to offer a sense of peace and quiet, along with those magnificent views. Ostuni is conveniently situated between two airports, Brindisi and Bari, with Bari offering seasonal direct flights from New York. Given Puglia’s expansive nature and its charming, scattered villages, renting a car is generally the best way to explore. The hotel provides free parking on-site, and even has electric-car charging ports, which is a great amenity for eco-conscious travelers.
When we’ve traveled in areas like this before, sometimes finding parking in the old towns can be a challenge. It’s good to know there’s dedicated parking here, making day trips much easier. I can imagine taking our time exploring Ostuni’s winding alleys, stopping for gelato, and letting Lily and Ethan chase pigeons in the main piazza.
I can’t wait to experience the beauty of Puglia firsthand and explore all that Vista Ostuni has to offer.