Turin, the capital of Italy’s Piedmont region, is a city that truly embraces its culinary heritage. This year, it’s even more special as Turin hosts the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. While Amelia and I skipped the high-end ticketed events, we discovered that diving into Turin’s vibrant food scene is incredibly accessible, even without a hefty budget.
Piedmontese Gastronomy
Piedmont is often overshadowed by Emilia-Romagna when it comes to Italian food fame, but it has a rich gastronomic history of its own. Think white truffles, quality rice for perfect risottos, decadent chocolate, fresh pasta, and a bounty of local cheeses. And of course, the region is famous for its world-class wines like Barolo and Barbaresco. Turin itself is a green city with beautiful piazzas, grand palaces, a bustling market, and the Po River. It’s also the birthplace of vermouth, grissini breadsticks, and espresso coffee.
I’ve found that many visitors assume that experiencing Turin’s food scene means spending a lot of money, especially with the buzz around the World’s 50 Best. But I love seeking out places where you can get a true taste of local life without breaking the bank. That’s exactly what we did, focusing on authentic experiences that showcase the region’s flavors.
A Taste of Local Dairy
One of our first discoveries was Latteria Bera, a family-run dairy that opened in 1958. It’s in the historic heart of Turin, and while it doesn’t supply fresh milk from the hills anymore, it’s still a cherished spot. The current owner keeps the tradition alive by working with small producers. They have an amazing selection of cheeses, both fresh and aged, made from cow, goat, and sheep milk. I was particularly intrigued by some local charcuterie I’d never seen before, like a cooked salami.
For anyone visiting from the UK, you might find it interesting to see locals popping in for a very popular treat: fresh cream, whipped with sugar and vanilla in an old-fashioned mixer. It’s served in small pots and eaten like ice cream, often with nuts, chocolate, or a warm zabaglione sauce. It’s a simple pleasure, but so uniquely Turin. You can grab takeaway portions or enjoy tastings starting from around €8.50.
Classic Turin Dishes
Turin is known for its classic dishes, and Scannabue is a place that does them all exceptionally well. You’ll find beloved items like carne cruda (beef tartare), vitello tonnato (veal with a creamy tuna mayonnaise), various stuffed pastas, and tender braised cheek meat with mashed potatoes. These are staples on many menus across the city.
Beyond the classics, Scannabue also offers inventive dishes, such as goat cheese with almonds and house-dried tomatoes, and marinated artichokes. The owner’s advice to eat the plin, a delicate pinched ravioli, with a spoon to fully appreciate the rich butter sauce is a must-follow. The risotto with parmesan, lemon, and bone marrow is equally decadent. What I really appreciate here is the warm and welcoming atmosphere. You can see the owner interacting with his staff, creating a really genuine feel.
Having a two-course lunch with either wine or dessert here can be as little as €15, making it a fantastic value. It’s a great way to sample several of Turin’s signature flavors.
A Play on Words
Le Vitel Étonné is a restaurant with a name that’s a playful mix of French and Piedmontese dialect. The founder created the name by twisting the local term for vitello tonnato, “vitel tonné,” to sound like “astonished veal.” While the pun might be lost on some, the quality of the meat is truly remarkable. They cook the veal for nine hours at a very low temperature, just 52°C, ensuring incredible tenderness.
The head chef here creates other delightful antipasti too, like a tripe salad that’s surprisingly delicious, anchovies served with a vibrant green and red sauce, and delicate stuffed courgette flowers in rice batter. We also enjoyed local pastas: tajarín, which are hand-cut ribbons, served carbonara-style with asparagus and guanciale, and agnolotti, a type of ravioli, filled with veal, beef, and pork and finished with roasting
juices. Two courses here are usually around €30, and they’ve even opened a takeaway pasta shop nearby, which is a brilliant idea.
An Evening Under the Vines
Antiche Sere, meaning “ancient evenings,” is set in a residential area west of the city center. Dining here, especially during the summer under a vine-covered pergola, feels like stepping into a storybook. The chef often comes out to greet and chat with diners, adding to the charm. This restaurant is run by a family, with the chef’s sister and other family members involved. The handwritten menu features all the traditional favorites, alongside hearty dishes like pork shank with potatoes and rabbit stew cooked in white wine.
I particularly enjoyed the “electric” tomini cheeses, served with a spicy green herb sauce. It’s a lovely, authentic experience. A two-course meal here starts at around €22, offering a delightful taste of home-style Piedmontese cooking.
Plant-Based Delights
Fratelli Bruzzone, run by a brother and sister team, started as a deli and has grown into a cozy 30-seat restaurant, with extra seating outside. They offer many Turin classics but also have some welcome plant-based options. I started with porcini mushrooms served in a traditional ceramic dish called a fujot, which keeps food warm with a candle. A plate of giardiniera, pickled vegetables, and a salad with fermented fennel were also enjoyable.
The plin pasta is also available with goat ricotta and asparagus, keeping the vegetarian theme going. To celebrate the World’s 50 Best launch, they’ve introduced house-made apricot or cherry ice lollies – a perfect, refreshing taste of summer fruit. Expect to pay around €20 for two courses, but be sure to book in advance, as it’s a small place.
Modern Twists on Tradition
Ristorante Consorzio is a dark, intimate restaurant that’s gaining a lot of attention. The Sicilian chef brings modern twists to traditional dishes, describing her approach as “taking history and making it into a novel.” They are also committed to organic and natural wines. Dishes marked with a snail symbol are registered with Slow Food, a mark of quality and sustainability.
I appreciated the menu’s meat-light options. A standout was a crispy egg served on braised chard, followed by grilled asparagus with pea cream and pine nuts. For the more adventurous, there’s an offal selection that includes pig’s foot, brain salad, confit lung, and grilled matrice (cow’s vagina). Two courses here will cost from about €32.
A Relaxed Piedmontese Supper
In the San Salvario district, by the river, you’ll find Caffè dell’Orologio. On evening, this spot, known locally as a piola (an osteria), serves a merenda sinoira. This is a traditional Piedmont country supper – a welcome change from elaborate multi-course meals. It’s a menu of small, tasty plates, which is perfect for sharing and trying a variety of things.
We enjoyed potato croquettes, marinated onions, thinly sliced tongue with a tomato and pepper sauce, rabbit liver paté, and fresh tomini cheeses with a herby sauce. The wine list is exclusively Piedmontese, which is great for exploring local wines. This place is also open all afternoon, making it a good option for families who get hungry before dinner service starts.
Artisanal Gelato
You can find gelato stands all over Turin, but for something truly special, I recommend Aria. Opened in 2022 in the Vanchiglia district, this gelateria focuses on artisanal creations. The owner uses locally sourced ingredients like saffron, mountain honey, hazelnuts, and olive oil. The flavors are inspired by the region and its history. I tried one called “Il Senateur,” a liquorice and violet flavor, which was supposedly a favorite of Count Camillo Benso of Cavour. There’s also a popular popcorn and caramel flavor.
It’s beautiful to see how gelato can tell a story of the region through its ingredients and inspiration.
Turin’s Chocolate Heritage
Turin and chocolate have a long-standing connection, dating back centuries. The city is filled with famous chocolate shops, but for something truly handcrafted, I sought out Toc in the Borgo Nuovo district. Here, they make their chocolates daily using high-quality ingredients. You can find flavors like salted caramel, pistachio, orange peel, and even rosemary – surprisingly delicious!
It’s important to note that these chocolates are best enjoyed within three weeks of purchase, which is a testament to their freshness and artisanal nature.
The Birthplace of Vermouth
Turin is also where vermouth originated, and the best place to experience this is at Eccetera Bar. The owner, Nicola Piazza, has two decades of experience in the drinks industry and is passionate about vermouth. He explains how adding bitter herbs to wine was believed to stimulate appetite and prepare the stomach for a meal.
You can taste three different vermouths neat, including a special edition Martini “di Torino.” Then, you can try making three cocktails, including a Negroni, named after a gin-loving count. For me, a simple Cocchi vermouth with sparkling water is a winning combination and a refreshing alternative to other aperitifs. They offer a “Vermouth Voyage” experience at €45 per person, which is a great way to learn and taste.
Where to Stay
For a comfortable and stylish base, the B&B Look TO is a wonderful choice. Located in an 1830s palazzo overlooking Piazza Vittorio Veneto, it’s within walking distance of the train station and the river. The interiors are anything but bland; with rich colors like dark teal and glowing red in the sitting rooms, and sunny yellow in the breakfast area. The four bedrooms are named after flowers, and the largest, “Giglio” (lily), features a marble bathroom and a vibrant tropical flower mural.