I stood in the Giardini della Biennale, watching a small crowd gather near the pale green Russian pavilion. A few feet away, a woman from the Ukrainian pavilion was setting up an installation that included an eight-foot origami deer hanging from a crane. The contrast was impossible to ignore. This year’s Venice Biennale, the world’s largest contemporary art exhibition, has become a flashpoint for a much bigger argument about whether art and politics can — or should — be separated. Russia returned to the Biennale for the first time since its 2022 invasion of Ukraine, and the European Union threatened to cut two million euros ($2.3 million) in funding over it. I went to Venice to see what was actually happening on the ground, and whether a tourist like me could even visit the pavilion.
You cannot walk into the Russian pavilion as a regular visitor during the public run of the Biennale (May 9 to November 22). The exhibition is closed to the public. Performances were recorded during press previews and will be projected on giant outdoor screens. If you want to see the art, you will be watching a video outside.
Art lovers interested in geopolitics
Travelers who want to understand Venice beyond the canals
Solo travelers who enjoy cultural debate
What the Russian Pavilion Actually Contains
The pavilion is titled “The Tree Is Rooted in the Sky,” and it is not a traditional art exhibition.
There are no paintings on the walls. No sculptures. Instead, the space features folk singers, electronic music DJs, and sound installations. The official list of 38 participants includes the Toloka Ensemble (a folk group), Phurpa (a group specializing in Tibetan throat singing), and the Moscow Noise Factory (an electronic music collective). During the press preview, I watched six members of the Toloka Ensemble sing traditional songs to a small group of reporters. Later, DJs played fast electronic music while a few people danced. Free double vodka tonics were served by bartenders in white shirts.
Animator and sound artist Tatiana Khalbaeva contributed an installation that incorporates sound and video recordings from Buryatia, eastern Russia, including the sound of a man ice fishing. Performers also include DJ Diaki from Mali and Elias Musiak from Argentina, who mixes experimental electronics with traditional Argentine music. The pavilion’s commissioner, Anastasia Karneeva, told reporters she prefers for art to be the only voice, warning that closing pavilions shuts off dialogue.
The Russian pavilion is a grand pale green building that dates to before the Russian Revolution. It sits in the Giardini della Biennale, the main exhibition grounds, alongside national pavilions from dozens of other countries.
The Protests and Political Fallout
The controversy did not stay inside the Giardini. It spilled into the streets, the Italian government, and the European Union.
Bare-breasted activists from the Ukrainian feminist collective Femen and the Russian protest punk band Pussy Riot protested outside the Russian pavilion wearing pink balaclavas and setting off pink smoke bombs. Femen activist Inna Shevchenko stated, “We are here to remind that the only Russian culture, the only Russian art today is blood,” and “This pavilion stands on Ukrainian mass graves.” About a hundred pro-Palestinian demonstrators also gathered in front of Israel’s pavilion, holding banners that read “No artwashing genocide.”
The Biennale’s prize jury resigned after deciding they would not hand out awards to countries led by figures subject to arrest warrants issued by the International Criminal Court, which includes Russia and Israel. The backlash focused more on the exclusion of Israeli artists than on Russia. Organizers postponed the award ceremony from May 9 to November 22, citing the “exceptional nature of the ongoing international geopolitical situation.”
Italy’s culture ministry sent inspectors to assess whether hosting the Russian delegation violated European sanctions. The European Commission said it intended to “suspend or terminate” its grant of two million euros over three years. Italian Culture Minister Alessandro Giuli expressed opposition to Russia’s inclusion and said he would not be going to Venice. Biennale President Pietrangelo Buttafuoco defended the decision, stating that organizers “cannot boycott as an automatic response” and that selecting art based on passports would change what the Biennale represents.
If you visit the Biennale during the public run, expect heightened security around the Russian and Israeli pavilions. Protests are likely, and some areas may be cordoned off. Check the Biennale’s official website for real-time updates before you go.
Can You Visit the Russian Pavilion as a Tourist?
This is the practical question most travelers ask, and the answer is more complicated than a simple yes or no.
The Russian pavilion will not be open to the public during the Biennale’s public run from May 9 to November 22. Musical performances for the exhibition were recorded during press previews and will later be projected on giant outdoor screens. Russia’s ambassador to Italy, Aleksei Paramonov, confirmed that live performances would not be allowed beyond press previews due to sanctions. So if you buy a ticket to the Biennale, you will be able to stand outside the pavilion and watch a video of the performances, but you will not walk through the doors.
This is unusual. Most national pavilions are open to ticket holders. The Russian pavilion is effectively a closed installation that exists only as a recorded projection. Some visitors may find this frustrating. Others may see it as a fitting metaphor for the entire debate.
Arrive at the Giardini early in the morning, around 9:30 AM, to avoid the longest lines at the main entrance. The outdoor screening area for the Russian pavilion is near the back of the grounds, close to the central pavilion. Give yourself 15 minutes to watch the full projection.
What Else to See at the Biennale This Year
The controversy around the Russian pavilion should not overshadow the rest of the exhibition, which is enormous and worth a full day.
The Biennale employs 2,400 staff representing 100 different nationalities. The main exhibition, curated by a team of international directors, fills the Central Pavilion in the Giardini and the Arsenale, a sprawling former shipyard. National pavilions from 38 countries are spread across both sites. The Ukrainian pavilion, located about 50 yards from the Russian one, features Zhanna Kadyrova’s show titled “Security Guarantees,” which includes an eight-foot-tall origami deer statue hanging from a crane. Kadyrova noted the daily threats of drone strikes in Kyiv as context for her work.
Other standout pavilions this year include the German pavilion, which focuses on collective memory, and the French pavilion, which features immersive sound installations. The Arsenale section is particularly good for visitors who want to see large-scale installations without the crowds of the Giardini. Plan for at least four to five hours if you want to see both sites.
Venice Beyond the Biennale: Where to Stay and Eat
If you are traveling to Venice specifically for the Biennale, you will want a base that is close to the Giardini but not overrun with tourists.
The Castello district, where the Giardini is located, is quieter than San Marco and has better restaurant options. I stayed near the Arsenale during my visit and found it easy to walk to the exhibition grounds each morning. For a meal, try Osteria alle Testiere, a small seafood spot near Campo Santa Maria Formosa that requires a reservation at least a week in advance. For a quick lunch between pavilions, the café inside the Giardini serves passable panini and good espresso, but expect a line between 12:30 and 2:00 PM.
If you are traveling with kids, the Biennale can be overwhelming. Lily (7) lasted about two hours before she got bored. Ethan (4) lasted 45 minutes. I would not recommend bringing young children unless they are genuinely interested in art. The Arsenale section has more open space where kids can move around, but the Giardini pavilions are cramped and crowded.
Book your hotel in Castello or Cannaregio at least three months in advance if you are visiting during the Biennale. Prices double during the opening weeks in May. I recommend checking our guide to the best hotels in Venice for specific recommendations in each neighborhood.
How the Biennale Compares to Other Venice Events
If you are deciding between the Biennale and other major Venice events, here is how they stack up for a first-time visitor.
| Event | When | Best for | Kid-friendly? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Venice Biennale (Art) | May – November | Contemporary art lovers, culture travelers | Limited — best for ages 12+ |
| Venice Carnival | February – March | Costume enthusiasts, photographers | Yes — kids love the masks and parades |
| Venice Film Festival | Late August – early September | Film buffs, celebrity spotters | Limited — red carpet areas are crowded |
| Regata Storica | First Sunday of September | History lovers, rowing fans | Yes — great views from the Grand Canal |
- The Russian pavilion is closed to the public — you will only see recorded projections on outdoor screens.
- Plan for at least four hours to see both the Giardini and the Arsenale sections of the Biennale.
- Book accommodation in Castello or Cannaregio three months ahead to avoid peak Biennale pricing.
Is the Biennale Worth Visiting This Year?
I have been to the Venice Biennale twice before, and this is the most politically charged edition I have seen. The art itself is strong — the Ukrainian pavilion alone is worth the trip — but the experience of walking through the Giardini feels different this year. You cannot ignore the tension. The Russian pavilion sits empty and closed, a projection playing on a screen outside, while protesters gather at the gates. Some visitors will find this uncomfortable. Others will find it necessary.
If you go, go with open eyes. Read about the controversy before you arrive. Talk to the artists if you can. And do not skip the smaller pavilions in the Arsenale, where some of the most interesting work is hiding. The Biennale has always been a place where the world comes together. This year, it is also a place where the world comes apart.
For more practical advice on visiting Venice, including where to stay and how to navigate the city with kids, read our Venice travel guide.
Before You Go to the Venice Biennale
Can I buy tickets at the door?
Yes, but expect long lines during peak hours (11:00 AM to 2:00 PM). Buy tickets online in advance to skip the queue. The full-day pass costs around 25 euros.
Is the Biennale accessible for strollers or wheelchairs?
The Giardini grounds are flat and paved, but some pavilions have stairs without ramps. The Arsenale section is more accessible. Contact the Biennale’s accessibility office in advance for specific pavilion information.
Is the Russian pavilion disappointing to visit?
Yes, if you expect to walk inside and see art. You will only see recorded performances projected on outdoor screens. Many visitors find this anticlimactic. If you want a full exhibition experience, prioritize other pavilions.
How long should I spend at the Biennale?
Plan for a full day — at least four to five hours to see both the Giardini and the Arsenale. If you only have half a day, choose the Arsenale for larger installations and fewer crowds.
Are there protests during the public opening?
Protests are likely, especially around the Russian and Israeli pavilions. Check local news before your visit. The Biennale typically increases security during the opening weeks in May.
One Last Thought on Art and Politics in Venice
I sat on a bench near the Ukrainian pavilion, watching a family take photos in front of the origami deer. A few yards away, the Russian pavilion stood quiet and locked. The deer swayed slightly in the breeze. I thought about what Zhanna Kadyrova said about drone strikes in Kyiv, and how strange it felt to be standing in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, surrounded by art, while a war continues. The Biennale does not offer easy answers. But it does force you to ask the questions. That might be enough.
For more on planning your trip to Venice, including seasonal tips and family-friendly activities, read our guide to visiting Venice in October.
Sources and further reading
Digital Journal. “Protests as Venice Biennale opens in turmoil over Russian presence.” 2026. 🔗
The New York Times. “Venice Biennale’s Russian Pavilion Sparks Culture War Debate.” 2026. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
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Verona and 6 Italian Cities for a Slow Valentine’s Day — A romantic itinerary that pairs well with a Venice trip, covering smaller cities with fewer tourists.
Philippines to Switzerland: A Relaxed 5-Day Italy Itinerary — A practical itinerary for travelers combining Venice with other Italian destinations, with realistic time estimates for each stop.