The Mediterranean, when it finally greets you, might not be the immediate sun-drenched vision you’d always hoped for. My journey south from Paris began with chilly rain in Marseille and continued through grey skies as we rolled into Nice. It got me thinking about how far south I’d truly need to venture to feel those coveted rays before the year truly turned. For me, the allure of Pompeii, with its recent discoveries, became the target, a chance to see a famous spot without the usual throngs and hopefully catch some genuine warmth.
A Journey of Slow Discovery
The desire for a more deliberate travel approach, a stark contrast to the “fear of missing out” that once dominated, feels incredibly relevant today. The joy of truly experiencing a place, allowing for detours and unexpected finds, is the essence of what modern travel is embracing. This trip, embracing train travel, offers just that. It’s not about rushing between destinations, but about savoring the journey itself, much like the literary figures of the past who sought out the “warm South” for respite and inspiration.
The Italian Coastline Unfolds
As my train pulled into Genoa, the clouds finally broke, and the sun made its appearance. It was a moment that sparked a pang of regret for not planning more stops along this breathtaking stretch of coast. Places like La Spezia, with the picturesque Cinque Terre villages, or Pisa, where the famous tower is an easy stroll from the station, flashed through my mind. Tarquinia, with its UNESCO World Heritage Etruscan tombs, also beckoned. These possibilities, so easily overlooked when flying, highlight the unique charm of rail travel – the ability to see and experience so much more at a human pace.
Rome and the Echoes of Keats
The further south I journeyed, the more palpable the change in climate became. As the train trundled through the outskirts of Rome, I felt I had truly arrived in a warmer zone. Staying near Vatican City offered a perfect base for exploring on foot. Walking to the Spanish Steps, I couldn’t help but think of John Keats, who found his final lodgings in this very area. It’s a poignant reminder of his quest for the “warm South,” a destination he reached but tragically, too late. The modern scene unfolding on the steps, with people capturing content for social media, offers a fascinating, if slightly surreal, juxtaposition with the historical weight of the place.
Naples: A City of Passion and Pizza
My Saturday arrival in Naples was marked by an electric atmosphere. Finding a street cafe, I settled in with a delicious pizza, the perfect accompaniment to watching Napoli play Juventus on television. The passion for football here is undeniable, a core part of the city’s identity.
Island Escapes Near Naples
Sunday brought a different kind of energy as half the city seemed to head towards the port, eager for a ferry trip to the nearby islands. I joined the throng, opting for Procida, a smaller island that felt wonderfully authentic. Unlike some destinations that have been wholly transformed by tourism, Procida feels like a genuinely living place. It’s not a tourist-powered gentrification experiment; it’s a community that welcomes visitors.
What makes Procida special?
The island is a feast for the senses. Colourful houses tumble down to the water’s edge, creating a scene straight out of a postcard. The locals, much like their Neapolitan counterparts, navigate the narrow streets with a spirited fervor. Many head to the waterfront restaurants, where the aroma of fresh seafood fills the air. I savored spaghetti al pesto di limone, a dish that perfectly captured the island’s renowned sweet lemons, a flavor that infuses many local specialties.
While Procida’s beaches have gained fame through films like Il Postino and The Talented Mr Ripley, it’s the island’s labyrinthine backstreets, the cascading architecture, and the genuine atmosphere that truly capture the heart. Many homes are still occupied by fishing families, preserving a sense of tradition amidst the natural beauty.
Pompeii: Unveiling Ancient Secrets
Visiting Pompeii felt like stepping back in time, a profoundly moving experience. When John Keats visited, Pompeii was only just being rediscovered, and archaeological methods were more akin to treasure hunting. Expeditions back then often resulted in more destruction than discovery as they burrowed through the layers of pumice and ash to retrieve valuables.
The Evolution of a Tourist Icon
Over the 20th century, Pompeii transformed into a major tourist attraction. For a long time, it felt as though the story of Pompeii was fully told and cataloged, with a well-trodden tourist circuit emerging. The standard visit involved a train ride from Naples and a guided tour. While these tours offered glimpses of iconic sites, there was a sense of predictability, a feeling that the site had settled into its role as a historical exhibit.
Has Pompeii changed recently?
Remarkably, something significant is stirring at Pompeii. Under the direction of Gabriel Zuchtriegel, the site is undergoing a dynamic transformation. New discoveries are being made, and a fresh perspective is being brought to the ancient city. I had the opportunity to speak with Alessandro Russo, one of the archaeologists on site.
“It’s a very exciting time to work here,” Alessandro explained. “We are able to work with artefacts from older excavations, but now we are actively digging in new areas, uncovering untouched contexts. This is invaluable for reinterpreting areas that have been previously excavated.”
He guided me through “Regio IX,” an area where archaeologists are meticulously clearing away pumice. The goal is to reveal spectacular wall paintings, their colors believed to be as vivid as they were in AD79. A gantry system has been installed, allowing visitors to observe this delicate process firsthand. Alessandro pointed out a particularly striking portrait of a young girl, chubby-cheeked and holding fresh grapes, figs, and pomegranates. He noted its rarity, suggesting it might depict a real child. Nearby, a hole in the wall served as a stark reminder of the past – an 18th-century explorer had tunneled through, narrowly missing this precious portrait.
Further exploration revealed the remains of a stable, with the skeletons of six horses preserved in the positions they died. Alessandro mentioned this section is expected to be opened to the public soon. Ascending to the top layer of ash, which still covers a third of Pompeii, offered insight into the vastness of the eruption. This landscape, gray-white and dotted with scrub, was the very thing that preserved the town for centuries.
Venturing down a ramp, we entered a newly uncovered house, identified as a bakery. The oven is still visible, and a faded wall painting vaguely resembles a pizza. Evidence suggests construction work was underway when Vesuvius erupted, leaving fallen roof timbers and volcanic dust hinting at further discoveries. Nearby, an exquisite blue room and a grand black-painted dining chamber offered glimpses into the opulent lives of Pompeii’s former residents.
Can I see the active dig sites?
One of Pompeii’s most exciting recent developments is the opportunity for visitors to join tours of ongoing archaeological work. This is currently the only way to see new treasures, such as the stunning blue sacrarium. The feeling of being present at a moment of discovery, even as a visitor, is truly memorable.
Another significant treasure soon to be back on display is the Alexander the Great mosaic. This intricate work, composed of four million tiles, depicts Alexander’s battle against Darius III. Discovered in the House of the Faun in 1831, it has undergone vital preservation work and is slated for return to Naples’s National Archaeological Museum. It’s a piece of history that beautifully illustrates the artistic achievements of the era.
Paestum A Journey to Ancient Temples
While Pompeii commands much of the attention in the Neapolitan tourist scene, it’s easy to overlook other equally fascinating sites. For those craving more ancient history and sunshine, Paestum is an excellent choice, an hour’s train ride south. Repeated recommendations from fellow travelers convinced me to make the journey, and I’m so glad I did.
Arriving in Greek Splendor
Stepping off the train at Paestum instantly confirmed my decision. Founded by the Greeks around 600 BC, the site boasts three spectacular temples, alongside other remarkable ruins. The museum here holds a particular treasure: the Tomb of the Diver.
What is the Tomb of the Diver?
This remarkable find consists of five painted panels recovered from a tomb discovered outside the city in 1968. One panel uniquely depicts a youth diving from a great height into what appears to be a river or the sea. This artwork is unparalleled, and archaeologists are still debating its precise cultural origin and meaning. Some interpret it as a symbol of the leap into the unknown that death represents, while others see it as a more complex allegory.
For me, standing there, looking at the diver, it simply meant the water was warm enough for a refreshing plunge. And with a sandy beach less than a mile away, the final leg of my journey south felt complete and inviting.
Italy continues to reveal its layers, offering a journey that is as much about the path taken as the destinations reached. Whether delving into the newly uncovered secrets of Pompeii or basking in the ancient grandeur of Paestum, each experience offers a unique connection to the past, all under the hopeful promise of the sun.